Double exposure or other techniques for controlling high contrast scenes?

[l2oBiN]

I have been shooting b&w city scenes shortly after sunset and have had some success in managing the ghigh contrast of the scenes by pulling the processing. However, the street lights and bright storefront signs still seem too "built up"/developed.

To control the hugh contrast, I have heard that one can take two exposures on the same sheet of film... 1. Shortly before the streetlights come on and 2. Just after they appear. Which ratio of 1 to 2 exposure is appropriate? Does anyone have experience with this technique? Examples and advice for this technique would be great!

Beyond the double exposure technique, are there any other which could compensate for the contrast even more effectively?

[ic-racer]

You maybe confusing things. You can make building and street lights appear to be on or more prominent by making an exposure before sunset and another one at night, giving more exposure on the second exposure to bring out just the window lights and street lights without over-exposing the buildings (which will now be dark).

[l2oBiN]

You maybe confusing things. You can make building and street lights appear to be on or more prominent by making an exposure before sunset and another one at night, giving more exposure on the second exposure to bring out just the window lights and street lights without over-exposing the buildings (which will now be dark).

Perhaps this was not clear in my post but that is what I was referring to. However at which time of day/night and at which exposure 1:2 ratio does this work best is unclear to me...

[Greg Miller]

Usually somewhere around 30 minutes before sunrise or after sunset, the natural light will balance with the artificial lights. And usually the sky is more interesting then when it gets really dark So you can capture the scene in one shot. The balance only last a short time, but after you do it a few times it gets easier to recognize it visually when it happens.

[l2oBiN]

Usually somewhere around 30 minutes before sunrise or after sunset, the natural light will balance with the artificial lights. And usually the sky is more interesting then when it gets really dark So you can capture the scene in one shot. The balance only last a short time, but after you do it a few times it gets easier to recognize it visually when it happens.

Thank you Greg,

i am aware of this, and have been utilising this time period. But what I find is that while the balance is right with the average "in building" lighting, the street lamps and strong neon signs seem to be well above this average in terms of light condition. I would like to tame them down... any ideas?

[Greg Miller]

I think you might want to try timing your exposure for when the sky is slightly brighter - balance the brightest lights with the sky, and let everything else fall where they may. That way the street lights won't get blown out. The building lights will be slightly dimmer but that should be OK.

[l2oBiN]

I think you might want to try timing your exposure for when the sky is slightly brighter - balance the brightest lights with the sky, and let everything else fall where they may. That way the street lights won't get blown out. The building lights will be slightly dimmer but that should be OK.

Hmm... sounds like a plan ... however streets lights are about LV15, that is quite bright! I have tried shooting just when the light come on, and this does tame the lights down, but it makes the image look a bit weird (day with street lamps on) What I am really looking for is more of a recognisable night shot where the street lights/neon signs are more tame.

For example, in the image below, I would like to have exposed perhaps a stop or two more, to get some detail in the church tower (close to left edge), however, this results in the street lamps blowing out. I would like to get them back into usable tonality...

(from memory: Tower was at ~EV1 [placed in zone 3], street lights at ~EV15 [close to centre of the image, near the "50" speed sign], the glowing tower in the middle, ~EV8-9)


Sergels Torg. Stockholm, Sweden. by Marko Matic, on Flickr

[Peter Gomena]

The double-exposure technique I learned in school was to underexpose the dusk exposure, figured with an incident meter, from one to two stops. The "dark" exposure for the lights was figured from a chart based on the "sunny 16" rule for whatever film you used. Worked pretty dependably. Be sure to keep your aperture constant and change only the time for the second exposure. For "brightly lit downtown street scenes at night," this was sunny 16 + 7 stops. For "distant view of city skyline at night," this was sunny 16 plus 13 stops, and "floodlit buildings" was sunny 16 plus 11 stops.

I found that one or 1-1/2 stops was plenty of underexposure for the dusk shot. The dusk shot was made sometime after the sun had dropped below the horizon, your choice on that one.

Don't expect perfect results first time out. It takes a little practice.

Peter Gomena

[Peter De Smidt]

You could try two bath Pyrocat. See: http://www.pyrocat-hd.com/ . It does an amazing job taming scenes of high contrast.

[Ari]

Marko, that's a pretty great photo you took.
As for the church, I'm not sure if any technique will bring out the detail if there is no ambient light on it.

Might I also ask whether or not you were using Acros for this shot?