Good luck with that, and Daniel too-
Will be following with interest, and look forward to pilfering some code someday-
Good luck with that, and Daniel too-
Will be following with interest, and look forward to pilfering some code someday-
Here's a video of a very early stages prototype xy-stage: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZ_OrwB90CM
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Peter, quite nice. I didn't notice any backlash in translation although I suppose that would not be too critical for the application here. Interesting that you chose two different rails for X and Y motion but I assume they are driven by the same type of stepper. The real trick is to keep the assembly in the exact plane of focus during translation.
I take it that this is a prelude to a full blown prototype that will scan LF at potentially high rez by stepping then tiling the copies using software.
Nate Potter, Austin TX.
Hi Nate,
Yes, this is just a prototype to work out control issues.
Btw., the rails are all 450mm fully-supported SBR 16 linear bearing rods. The steppers are 12-volt Nema 17 200 step/rotation models from Adafruit. See: http://www.adafruit.com/products/324. If I were to buy new ones, I'd get slightly bigger ones.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Sweet rig!
Is it Misumi or similar or did you machine the parts yourself? Can you give me a ballpark figure on the mechanics?
Looking forward too seeing more, keep up the good work!
Thanks Ludvig. The rails and blocks were from Ebay. The total was $140 shipped for 4-450mm rails and 8 blocks. I'm happy with the quality.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Any news here? I am probably going back into this project again later this year. My wife just got bit by the largeformat bug. I have some new ideas too...
Ludvig
Hi Ludvig,
Both Daniel and I are currently finishing up our light sources. They both use RGB LED ribbons, and the R, G, and B intensities are controllable separately. Daniel's a little farther along than I am.
The Arduino control program is finished and is working well.
Hopefully, we'll both have fully working devices soon, and when we do, we'll post particulars.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Interesting!
I was also thinking of using rgb ribbons in a woven grid with diffusion. Also looked into using an acrylic with etched backface and filters like on a led tv, just replacing the ledstrips with very powerful rgbleds. I would guess that the filters from a broken led tv still is a good idea to use to break up a backlit solution. For my 8mm and 16mm scanners I use a sphere as a mixingchamber. Through an opening slightly larger then the FOV on one side I shoot the inside of the sphere where all colors mix perfectly. The hole should not be larger then 5% ideally so in this senario with a large sensor the sphere needs to have a diameter of 7-10 cm. The best part of using a sphere is that its easier to add more leds as you go, like infrared and white leds. and that it is always perfectly flat light. How do you control the exposure of red green and blue? With PWM or with the length of burst? On my applications I flash the led with the length of red green and blue being adjustible synced to the shutter of the camera. The advantage being I can use more powerful led without worriyng about heat. Also I get zero shake from the mirror/shutter and it is easier to implement HDR. Disadvantage is that it is more complex.
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