Advice on a good stiff 8x10 filed camera

[jayavant]

I have an old Burke and James wooden 8x10 that is heavy, unstable, and inaccurate in its movements. I want to upgrade to something nor too heavy but good and rigid. I shoot outdoors, often in the wind.

I am considering a Deardorrf or a Chamonix. Does anyone have any experience, particularly with the latter.

(also can a moderator please correct the error in the title of this thread)

[cosmicexplosion]

richard ritter?

[vinny]

chamonix, haven't seen a ritter in person

[Daniel Stone]

Kodak Master View, it's aluminum, and a very versatile camera IMO. But not too heavy either(around 12# or so). Packs up into a pretty small(for 8x10) package size-wise...

downside(IMO) is the lensboards. Original, undrilled ones are hard(if not almost impossible) to find, newly made(and redesigned) ones are expensive, $125-150/each. Hence why I've contracted SKGrimes to make a lensboard adapter to take SINAR/HORSEMAN lensboards, they're much more common, and VASTLY cheaper price-wise

-Dan

[jayavant]

Thanks for your replies so far.

From what I read the Chamonix may be a little more rigid than the Ritter. IT is also heavier. Has less movements too and shorter bellows extension. Prices are similar - Ritter a little cheaper.

Rigidity is my main concern.

[Frank Petronio]

If you FILE a camera it will probably get weaker. Otherwise:

1. An Arca-Swiss. A rare older one if you can find one, or an expensive newer one if you can find one.

2. Daniel's advice on the KMV squares with mine, nothing floppy, a great design.

3. There is/was a guy trying to sell his Toyo 810 Field for about $3K, it is the brick $hithouse of cameras, plenty of overkill solid.

2. A Chinese knock off of a Phillips.

3. The camera you have and better carry options (stroller, air shippable box, something that makes life easier).

If I were going to shoot outdoors in the wind with an 8x10, for the money I would get an 8x10 Sinar Norma or F2 or even a P for less than $1000 by being patient and smart on eBay. I would mount it onto the Sinar Pan Tilt Head and a large #5 metal Gitzo, like a G-504 or 511. All of that would cost $1500 to $2000. It would be awful to carry more than 10-15 minutes at a time, it is not a backpacking rig. But it is a "get the picture right and in focus no matter what the conditions are" kind of camera. And they don't break the bank. A similar case could be made for similar Toyos, Cambos, and such but I use Sinar because they are so plentiful.

[John Kasaian]

A good Deardorff is a good Deardorff.

[cosmicexplosion]

Yeah yeah yeah she loves me yeah yeah yeah

Oh sorry,,,,

Eh mmmm where was I ah yes. Tell us. Are you traveling far from car?

I guess if you tell us your typical scenario it would help

If you want to drive to a location then any camera in the world will do

A big Mono rail like the sinar are all the camera you can hope for

Kind of like if you have a sinar you can't blame your tools


I asked this question a while back About wind.

And the fact is I am writing this message on my iPhone in a 2.6 ton transporter vw
the wind is giving it a good ok rattle

So we have to be a bit realistic

Wind and 810 are not a match in heaven

You need to think about things like an umbrella

To make a wind break

The sinar Norma look good compared to a sinar p in that they look stronger
Made the old way as frank once pointed out about their sOlid build.

The p are are not so robust but if you treat it kind will be great
Out and about

So your budget is about 3k

Tell us what you shoot typically and stuff like that
As its a tricky choice but in the end
I got a Kodak 2d and it sits in my car in a low pro back pack
And has been fine for most shots

Do you need extreme movements

A cheap toyo monorail is as good as any if you want sturdy over compact

I would not worry about weight

Just gett some sort of a trolley or buggy or Sherpa

Even a box with wheels

Do you drive

What sort of car.

Tell us all,

A

[Former Member 27732]

FWIW, I "enjoy" a love/hate relationship with my Ritter 8x10 and certainly can't recommend it when the wind gets up. In a slight breeze, and when using a (very) short focal length lens, I use rubber bands between front & rear standards to reduce some of the vibration in the front standard. It also takes a not inconsiderable amount of time to setup because the lens board doesn't sit parallel in the front standard - I have to add left swing to get focus from left to right across the frame.
/Frank...

[evan clarke]

I have an 11x14 Chamonix and use it like it's a 4x5. It's excellent. The 8x10 could only be better..