I used a couple of DISCARDED CDRoms to form my XY table.
see this for an idea; http://blog.whattomake.co.kr/158
and CDRs go for 1-3 dollars on ebay
I used a couple of DISCARDED CDRoms to form my XY table.
see this for an idea; http://blog.whattomake.co.kr/158
and CDRs go for 1-3 dollars on ebay
Rick did actually resumed pretty well the whole scene, but I would like to remember to those who already have Sinar P or equivalent 8x10 cameras and don't mind to make the scanning with hands, instead of machines, that X and Y movements works very fine with these cameras and both planes are naturally aligned.
A mask for holding 4x5' or 5x7' negatives set on the first frame and a nice SLR digital camera installed in the back and that's it. Of course some variations are possible and I made my scans using a Kaiser column for up and down movement and the Sinar for lateral shift, since at this time I just had a 4x5' camera. Aligning was a PITA, as you say, but after some trials it was easy to go along and make a bunch of scans each day.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Just started reading through this thread, so for all I know my input is coming to late, but I would recommend poping the flash a couple of times before you take the first image.
As a lighting professional, it is my experience that anything other than an old fashioned continuous filament needs to "warm up" before reaching consistent output. In this case, the warm is literal. Everytime you fire the flash it produces a small amount of heat, which is unlikely to effect exposure much, but could theoretically effect color temprature just slightly enough to blow your results. Good luck.
I'm trying to hold my tongue further until more tests are performed, but my strong suspicion is that strobes will not fare well for this application. The ones I've used vary by about 1/20th of a stop from pop to pop, which is virtually nothing but can put a real damper on animation or stitching.
It's telling that the stop motion animation films shot on DSLRs in recent years all used continuous light. The camera's shutter is much more consistent.
Most stitching software I've used recognized slight exposure variations and compensated for them in the process of blending, otherwise none of the stitched images with sky areas would be worth a damn. I wouldn't discard flash illumination just yet.
Just as another aside but does anyone have any experience or knowledge of using a Bowens illumitran slide copier? I know they were designed for making a single 35mm slide from an original but the lightbox design might be useful as a reference, or even an old illumitran could be used as the basis for a design. Note the illumitran did use flash for the exposure and contained a contrast control unit. Anyway I thought it might be worth looking at to see if there's any ideas that could be used.
There is one pictured with a 4x5" lightbox so if there was a way to incorporate a sliding mechanism just above that you'd be set as long as you could adapt your DSLR to fit.
Also if anyone had a lot of 120 or 35mm to be digitised this looks like an interesting solution
http://members.bitstream.net/~tlmartin/copiers.html
http://members.bitstream.net/~tlmartin/dslrfaq.html
I shopped for one recently in the hopes of snagging that bit of obsolete technology cheap. But the word seems to be out for people wanting to digitally archive slide libraries. The last few I've seen sold for many hundreds of dollars.
Rick "hoping to find one in a garage sale someday" Denney
Yeah, Illumitrans are going for quite a bit currently. I used to have a different brand, but I can't remember which one.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
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