Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: print drying screens---which finish?

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    San Joaquin Valley, California
    Posts
    9,599

    print drying screens---which finish?

    Hello!

    I've built some new drying screens. They are made from wood and will be screened with nylon window screen, but before I get to that, I want to give the wood a finish for protection. For esthetic reasons(does anyone else consider esthetics when building drying screens? lol!) I'd like to see the grain. What(for this poject) is the best among these four finishes: 1.Shellac, 2.Tung Oil, 3.Spar varnish or 4.a paint-thinner/linseed oil mix? Are there any other finishes I should consider? Thanks!
    "I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White

  2. #2

    print drying screens---which finish?

    Polyurethane is probably the best for this application.

  3. #3

    print drying screens---which finish?

    John, I would first rule out any kind of oil. Simple reason being it will not evaporate completely and you could just touch the frame while putting your prints on it and ... you've got a nice fingerprinted example of your hours in the darkroom.

    Since you seem to care about the aesthetics I will suggest varnish. Spar varnish is basically a generic name. While it implies quality, many times it's not. So get an Epifanes or Interlux Schooner. I've never used the Interlux brand alghough I've heard very good things about it. Epifanes brand is basically a standard in wooden boat restoration. Whichever brand you chose, the application is the key.

    1. Wood must be dry and smooth.

    2. Dust free for coating: vaccum it well and pass around with a lint-free damp rag (use varnish compatible thinner)

    3. Dilute varnish half-and-half with compatible thinner and apply first coat. Let it dry.

    4. You can try to sand this coat but it may seem tacky. If so, just apply the second coat with 10% higher varnish ratio. Let it dry.

    5. Now you should be able to sand it nicely. Use only a very fine paper of around 400 grid (wetdry type is your choice here, just don't wet it) or steel wool 000. Either available at Wal-Mart or most hardware auto-parts stores.

    6. Continue increasing varnish by 10% for each subsequent coat, always let it dry and sand before the next.

    7. When you get to full strength you may want get an even finer paper like 600/800 and it would be best to apply at least two full strength coats.

    This approach will give you a mirror finish that will last for a very long time. Fine wooden boats are dealt with this way. It's time consuming and never cheap, but results well worth the wait and effort.
    Witold
    simplest solutions are usually the most difficult ...

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Riverside, CA
    Posts
    61

    print drying screens---which finish?

    Yes, I use Polyurethane. My screens look great after 4-years and four washings.

  5. #5

    print drying screens---which finish?

    I'm normally not a big fan of urethane (plastic! yuk!), but it might be the best choice for this application. You'll never have to worry about getting them wet.

  6. #6
    Moderator Ralph Barker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    Rio Rancho, NM
    Posts
    5,034

    print drying screens---which finish?

    I agree with the polyurethane suggestion for durability in this application. With multiple coats, and sanding with 600 grit wet/dry (wet) in between, you can get a pretty nice, furniture-quality finish after three or four coats, or a utilitarian finish after two. If you don't like the high-gloss look, lightly rub it down with Rottenstone powder and oil in a rag.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    538

    print drying screens---which finish?

    Polyurethane's major claim to fame is abrasion resistance. It is quite hard and brittle. If you plan to walk on your frames this is the best finish. Just for your information, the downside to poly is that it has little resistance to UV, so don't dry your prints in the sunlight or the polyurethane will begin to peel.

    None of the oil finishes is good at resisting water. That's why coasters were invented.

    Spar varnish is a soft flexible version of varnish, made to resist cracking when applied to wood which may swell and shrink because of exposure to water (like boats). This sounds like a description of print drying frames to me. Spar varnish is also highly resistant to UV but too soft to walk on without soft-soled boat shoes. ;0)

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Location
    Forest Grove, Ore.
    Posts
    4,675

    print drying screens---which finish?

    It's also possible to build screens using the standard materials for making out door screens. It's pretty easy to do, and it can be done to any size specification.

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    San Joaquin Valley, California
    Posts
    9,599

    print drying screens---which finish?

    Witold & John,

    You've built a convincing case for spar varnish. I'm doubt if my douglas fir 1x3s are figured enough to deserve a yacht finish, but I'll give it a shot. I'm sure Polyeurethane would work nicely too(actually, my old screens were finished in clear shellac, gave good service and still look pretty nice) This is going to be one of the winter projects, so (ho-hum) I'm not really pressed for time.(Besides, it would be good practice just in case I strike it big at the casinos in Carson City when I go over to see Jim Galli's exhibit at the Nevada State Library and I have to buy a yacht!) Thanks to you all!
    "I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Greenbank, WA
    Posts
    2,605

    print drying screens---which finish?

    Marine spar varnish ("Man-O-War") would work well. I used this on a pine shelf on one end of my darkroom sink. After 8 years of being wet and having all kinds of b&w chemistry on it it still looks very nice. I would think it would be a lifetime finish on a drying screen.

Similar Threads

  1. From start to finish
    By Richard Littlewood in forum On Photography
    Replies: 30
    Last Post: 24-Jun-2006, 17:59
  2. drying screens.. aluminum or fiberglass
    By brian steinberger in forum Darkroom: Film, Processing & Printing
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 16-Feb-2006, 14:58
  3. Korona Criterion View Finish
    By Terence McDonagh in forum Cameras & Camera Accessories
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 17-Jun-2005, 08:23
  4. Print Drying
    By Robert Ruderman in forum Business
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 19-Jan-2002, 16:57
  5. Fiber base print drying racks
    By David Grandy in forum Darkroom: Film, Processing & Printing
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 8-Mar-1999, 11:28

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •