I have to presume that most of us could get the full dmax out of a sheet of silver paper if the negative called for it - but how about the digital artifacts: don't the dots show ?
I have to presume that most of us could get the full dmax out of a sheet of silver paper if the negative called for it - but how about the digital artifacts: don't the dots show ?
I don't see any digital artifacts in my carbon transfer prints up to 16X20" in size when printing with digital negatives made with an inkjet printer. I begin with high resolution scans of medium format or 5X7" sheet film and print with QTR on an Epson 3800. And for the record, carbon transfer is a process that when printed on an appropriate high resolution paper, is as sharp as silver gelatin.
I know many outstanding photographers who print with alternative processes (carbon transfer, pt/pd, gum over platinum, etc) using digital inkjet negatives and I am certain that the vast majority of them do not share the view that the use of digital methods results in less image quality than the use of purely analog methods.
As for the best method of making digital negatives, depends on size of the original and final output size. If you require the very best digital negative, regardless of output size, get a drum scan and have an LTV negative made. But since this will cost on the order of $500 or more per pop your print production will be somewhat limited.
Sandy
For discussion and information about carbon transfer please visit the carbon group at groups.io
[url]https://groups.io/g/carbon
I'm going to try making some silver prints this way. Very exciting !
No kidding! Meet George Jetson. Just think of all the fun, advances, money and trouble we could have gotten into 40 years ago with today's technology. Of course my 68 Formula Firebird 450 with dual carbs was better than anything on the road today. Then 1974 and the gas crisis hit and me getting 5 miles to the gallon.
Making good digital negative prints takes as much skill as making good analog prints or ink jet prints. It dosent happen overnight, but I am shure it is possible. First you need excelent control over your print process and materials. Then you can have an enormous amount of control over the final print using digital methods.
David Cary
www.milfordguide.nz
I do not keep up with the recent technological advances in printing but I'd love to see one of these prints. Jay, can you point me in a direction where I may see one? I would love to see an inkjet 3-D carbon print.
I think one has to master their printing method and what it takes to get them there. For me it has always been the print.I have not seen, or printed from, a digital negative in any of my workshops that has given me what I get out of my in-camera negatives. It takes skill either way you go. I believe that Sandy has mastered this for carbon and maybe a few others. We work in a subjective medium and either way is good. Is one better than the other? That argument will go on forever.
The individual dots from the printhead are measured in millionths of an inch.
For larger dot pitches, like 300 dpi, each dot is built up from multiple individual drops of ink.
So it depends on the pitch you use for the negative. If you print it at 300 dpi, your final print will also be 300 dpi.
This works exactly like half-tone masks used for offset printing.
- Leigh
If you believe you can, or you believe you can't... you're right.
Sorry, Kirk.
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