Which 600 mm?

[Ken Lee]

The term "portable wall" was used in a general sense: the OP needs a portable wind block, a portable protection against the wind, a portable wind barrier, a portable impediment to the wind, a portable method of blocking the wind, a partition, enclosure, screen, panel, divider, etc. A tent fills the bill nicely.

Having already suggested that the Fujinon was a better choice because of portability, my point was that solving the problem of the wind frees the OP to choose the best lens, based on what he called "best image quality" - rather than worry about the wind and settle instead for whatever might require the shortest bellows draw.

[Steve M Hostetter]

I suppose If you want the very best 600mm lens with the best contrast over the entire image circle you might look at the Schneider 550mm XXL ...

[hiend61]

I suppose If you want the very best 600mm lens with the best contrast over the entire image circle you might look at the Schneider 550mm XXL ...

I thought about it. It is said to be sharper than Fujinon 600 C, but 5.800EUR is more than I can afford, considering that the Apo Tele Xenar combo (600+800) is in the 4.000EUR region, maybe a bit less.

[GPS]

I thought about it. It is said to be sharper than Fujinon 600 C, but 5.800EUR is more than I can afford, considering that the Apo Tele Xenar combo (600+800) is in the 4.000EUR region, maybe a bit less.

I'm surprised that nobody told you that yet - don't care about what is "said" about the apparent sharpness of this lens as "compared" to another one. That kind of sharpness is as much in the eye of the photographer as beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Nobody from this forum did (or can do for that matter) a test scientifically valid for a serious comparison between the lenses of your interest.
Furthermore, if you make a good lens shade for the Fuji C you can boost the apparent sharpness in a way nobody (well, except me ) ever saw - such is the effect of a good lens shade on the final result.
You would need to be a Sir Master of the Univers to be able to see a tangible difference between Apo Tele Xenar, Art 550 and Fujinon C on your pictures. The truth is that whatever difference there is in the majority of your pictures it will be buried under a ton (maybe even two) of other circumstantial effects of the atmosphere, flare, vibrations etc. etc.
Many profs take pictures with Fujinon C - does it tell you something? Regards, GPS

[hiend61]

Well, Options are clearer. Fujinon 600 or Apo tele Xenar 600. The Fujinon is more affordable, but my only consideration is to get the best I can afford. I was offered a brand new Apo Sinaron (Apo Ronar) 600/9 in new condition for 700EUR, but in that case I need a Sinar Copal shutter. I have no experience with this shutter and one in good condition is about 500EUR. The problem is that Spanish Sinar Service is a complete diaster from 2008 and nobody can repair this shutter in Spain. The 610 Apo Nikkor like Ken uses is said to be a really great lens too, but very hard to find.

[Drew Wiley]

Sharpness isn't just about the optics. Excessive weight at long bellows extensions is
going to nullify any alleged improvement in performance due to potential vibration from
wind, shutter shake, or just lack of a heavy enough support. In the REAL WORLD it's pretty damn hard to improve on the Fuji 600C. It's not only light and highly portable, but optically excellent too. Plus you've got plenty of surplus coverage. Color rendition
with this lens is excellent, just like the other C-series lenses.

[GPS]

Finally, thanks for the words of wisdom... ;-)

[hiend61]

I'm surprised that nobody told you that yet - don't care about what is "said" about the apparent sharpness of this lens as "compared" to another one. That kind of sharpness is as much in the eye of the photographer as beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Nobody from this forum did (or can do for that matter) a test scientifically valid for a serious comparison between the lenses of your interest.
Furthermore, if you make a good lens shade for the Fuji C you can boost the apparent sharpness in a way nobody (well, except me ) ever saw - such is the effect of a good lens shade on the final result.
You would need to be a Sir Master of the Univers to be able to see a tangible difference between Apo Tele Xenar, Art 550 and Fujinon C on your pictures. The truth is that whatever difference there is in the majority of your pictures it will be buried under a ton (maybe even two) of other circumstantial effects of the atmosphere, flare, vibrations etc. etc.
Many profs take pictures with Fujinon C - does it tell you something? Regards, GPS

Thanks for your advice. I used a couple of Fujinons time ago from a loan of a colleague (105/8S and 125/8S). I compared them to my Rodenstock Grandagons 90 and 115, and I found them superb. Fujinon is highly recommended by most of you. Is the cheapest and with the greater image circle and very compact, much like my Apo Ronar 480/9 and with same 67mm filter size.
I am a pro and shot mostly LF until 2002. In 2003 I had to migrate to digital because my clients forced me to do it. Since 2002 I use LF just for me. I know all the circumnstantial facts that can ruin a picture, and do my best to avoid most of them, and of course, I pay great attention to lens shades.

[GPS]

Thanks for your advice. I used a couple of Fujinons time ago from a loan of a colleague (105/8S and 125/8S). I compared them to my Rodenstock Grandagons 90 and 115, and I found them superb.

...

Ah, comparisons, the glorious can of worms...

[Clive Gray]

I only have experience of the Apo Ronar out of the lenses mentioned I paid about 300 Euros for a mint CL version on a Sinar board two years ago. If you are using a 10 x 8 P2 in the first place presumably wieght isn't to much of any issue anyway it is still a lot lighter than the camera.

The Sinar shutter, I and I'm sure many other people have found to be extremely reliable and can often be found for about half the price you have quoted if you are patient, as a bonus it gives you easy use of a huge range of lenses and can save you a fortune the most I have ever paid for a db mounted lens was £125 for the 300mm Macro Sinaron.

If its for personal use and not comercail I would be looking to save money myself if you really don't want the siinar shutter then if you can find a Docter optics 600mm Apo Germinar in shutter they are superb lenses I have the 750mm and have happilly used it on various Sinar 10x8 setups.

It's unlikely as someone stated that anyone has experience of all of these different lenses so you will still have to wiegh up whats best for you.

If it helps .... which was the only 600mm that Sinar offered as part of their range ....