Pre wet Delta 100 or not?

[Ari]

When you presoak with the 2509 reels, do you fill the canister upright or just use the appropriate coverage amount of water and rotate in the processor?

Either works, but it's easier to use the same amount of water as you would developer or other chemicals.

[Jehu]

Thanks guys. I was in one of those failure-induced discouragement phases with my photography. The responses I got are encouraging. I'll plan on trying a higher volume of chemistry as well as a 1-minute rotary presoak.

Now I just need to go shoot something...

[Roger Cole]

When you presoak with the 2509 reels, do you fill the canister upright or just use the appropriate coverage amount of water and rotate in the processor?

Either works, but it's easier to use the same amount of water as you would developer or other chemicals.

I have a CPE2 (not plus) and always use the same amount of water as developer. The motors on the CPE2 (and plus, I think) series are none too strong to start with and I believe, without a lot to back this up except online hearsay (would that be "readsay?") that it's best to keep the load on them lower when possible. At any rate it seems to work fine. I read many years ago that the contrast increase of constant agitation rotary processing was almost exactly offset by a 5 minute presoak allowing use of the same developer times, at least as starting points. I've generally found that to be true, though I have no experience with Delta 100.

[Joel Truckenbrod]

I've never presoaked using BTZS tubes with Delta 100 (both 4x5 and 5x7), and I've never had a problem with any form of uneven development. I'm not sure what, if any, impact the developer would have on the process either; I personally use Xtol. Ensuring sufficient chemistry seems like a good starting point.

[morie]

I have a habit of pre-soaking films until I getting burned from some 8X10 Delta 100 uneven developments.
I kept second guessing myself and I did check Ilford's web-site which not indicated any pre-soaking procedure for their films.
I do not pre-soak my 8X10 Delta 100 anymore and never having any uneven development again.
I really don't know what is the right answer or not.
I am still pre-soaking all other kinds of films and I am using 3 1/2 gallons Kodak developing tank.

[Brian Ellis]

I never pre-soaked except as tests to see if it made any difference with D76 1-1 and the Ilford HP5+ and TMax 100 films I used. It didn't. I got even development with that developer and those films with pre-soaking and without. So I didn't see any reason to spend an extra few minutes standing around inhaling chemical fumes. When I first used PMK (pyro) the book I worked from said to presoak so I did. Then after a while I decided to try pyro without presoaking to see what would happen. Nothing did so I quit presoaking with pyro too.

I'd be amazed if pre-soaking accomplishes anything with Delta 100, especially in view of Ilford's recommendation to not pre-soak, but since I never used that film I don't know from personal experience. The example you posted has some problems but IMHO they're the result of something other than a failure to presoak.

[Jehu]

It looks like I need to double up on my shots and split processing methods. I'll post the results.

I have a couple of jobs up around Virginia City (Yes, the one near the Cartwrights ranch) today. That may be a good opportunity to shoot some test sheets.

[frednewman]

Hi Jehu

The only film processing method that I recommend not using a presoak is with the BTZS film tubes. With the BTZS tubes you start out by shaking the tubes for the first 10" and the developer quickly coats the emulsion. See the youtube.com video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMXQO5ATgiY.

With other methods, such as roll film in a tank that you invert or Jobo tanks that you use with a Jobo processor, it takes time for the developer to cover the emulsion. For these methods I recommend using a 5 minute presoak.

I remember when I was talking with Phil Davis and he was telling me that presoak vs no presoak can change film speeds and developing times.

I found this out when I did an article for Photo Techniques on 400 T-Max-2. I normally process most 4x5 films with Ilford DDX developer at a dilution of 1+9 at 75 degrees F. My cold water in the summer here in Arizona is usually between 85 and 90 degrees F, so no 68 degrees processing for me.

So when I did a BTZS film test with the BTZS 4x5 film tubes, a 1+9 dilution was fine, but when I did the same film and developer combination in a Jobo processor using the 3010 expert drum, with a 5 minute presoak, the contrast was too high at 1+9. I increased the dilution to 1+12 to get similar results. I also increased the amount of developer per sheet of film. Normally with the 4x5 BTZS tubes 2 oz of developer is what you use, but with the Ilford DDX diluted past 1+9 I doubled the volume of developer.

Sometime today I'll try to get a video up on youtube.com showing these 2 film tests. To find the videos on youtube.com, just do a search on the word "viewcamerastore".

Fred Newman

[photobymike]

Pre soaking does 3 things for me. 1 Makes the emulsion swell for even soaking by developer. 2 Brings the film to the temperature of your chemistry. 3 Removes the anti-halation barrier. (Comes out as dark green.) I use Jobo tanks and presoak for 5 minutes with all films including color. Never had any mottling or spotting...Whatever you do keep it consistent. I can develop film in my sleep and i often do.

"I love the smell of fixer in the morning."

http://www.mikepic.com

[frednewman]

Hi Jehu

I just posted a video with two film tests showing the difference between presoak vs no presoak on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WM2ldlD-L8.

The results all depend on the film and developer combination and the method your are using to process the film. With a film test you can find out the results very quickly.

Fred Newman