Super Speed Graphic...

[Peter De Smidt]

Slide film has much less latitude than negative film, either color or bw. You could try a color negative film if you have to stick to quickloads.

Regarding filters, if you're using color materials, your choices for filters to darken the sky are polarizers and neutral density filters. You can also expose two sheets of film, one for the foreground and one for the sky. Combine in Photoshop. The polarizer will have a varying effect, with the most effect when point 90* away from the sun.

If you using bw filters, a yellow, yellow-green, orange and red filter will darken the sky, ordered from least to most. I prefer a yellow-green for most things, as it will darken the sky, but it won't knock down the shadows as much as an orange or red filter will do.

[cyrus]

I like to use a graduated orange or red filter for dramatic skies...IF I can ever find a damned cloud in the sky when I need it! Seems like everytime I need one, it is either a perfectly cloudless day, or a totally clouded-up sky with nothing but featureless white from horizon to horizon. Grrr! On those days, I am tempted to go to the darkside and buy a computer with PS to insert dramatic clouds into the shot...or, refer to my negatives of cloudy skies for a combination exposure under the enlarger. Or just give up and go have a drink.

[Carterofmars]

Slide film has much less latitude than negative film, either color or bw. You could try a color negative film if you have to stick to quickloads.

Regarding filters, if you're using color materials, your choices for filters to darken the sky are polarizers and neutral density filters. You can also expose two sheets of film, one for the foreground and one for the sky. Combine in Photoshop. The polarizer will have a varying effect, with the most effect when point 90* away from the sun.

If you using bw filters, a yellow, yellow-green, orange and red filter will darken the sky, ordered from least to most. I prefer a yellow-green for most things, as it will darken the sky, but it won't knock down the shadows as much as an orange or red filter will do.

When using the yellow-green how many stops do you typically compensate?

[atlcruiser]

Meter through the filter...filters also have the filter factor usually engraved on them but the metering seems to work better.

Yellow filter I just used the metered exposure through the filter. red I use the metered exposure through the filter then add 1 stop

Slide film is 4 stops at best and your scene has around 7-9 zones as best as I can tell.
I understand about the quickloads but you gotta branch out

$100 will get you a pile of holders and a big box of shanghai or arista edu then go to town

[Carterofmars]

Meter through the filter...filters also have the filter factor usually engraved on them but the metering seems to work better.

Yellow filter I just used the metered exposure through the filter. red I use the metered exposure through the filter then add 1 stop

Slide film is 4 stops at best and your scene has around 7-9 zones as best as I can tell.
I understand about the quickloads but you gotta branch out

$100 will get you a pile of holders and a big box of shanghai or arista edu then go to town

I have holders, loading bags, you name it. I just need to load some film in the holders and try it out. I may by a box of color neg film as Peter suggested and just figure out the notch business and load them up. I'll remove from holders and drop into a box and take to lab. What the worse that can happen.

[Carterofmars]

Also- this is a 135mm lens. I wonder how these would have looked, considering the distance from the lake, had I used a 210mm or better? It was a very hazy day too.

[Ivan J. Eberle]

More than likely, as stated above, the brightness ratio of the original scene exceeded the range of the material you've chosen, at least from what I can see. (It might also be that your scanning plug-in clipped shadows and highlights). Color or B&W negative materials are a better choice in the middle of the day with storm clearing light extremes.

Incidentally, you don't want to use B&W film-specific filters with color transparency or negative materials.

[cyrus]

Also- this is a 135mm lens. I wonder how these would have looked, considering the distance from the lake, had I used a 210mm or better? It was a very hazy day too.

But if you change lenses then you can't really use this camera as a press camera was meant to be used (handheld, rangefinder focus) as you'd have to get a cam to go with the new lens (expensive)

[Carterofmars]

But if you change lenses then you can't really use this camera as a press camera was meant to be used (handheld, rangefinder focus) as you'd have to get a cam to go with the new lens (expensive)

Not interested really in using hand held, although I have thought about it, which prob means that on day I'll end up wanting to. I will try to get sheet film and load myself I think. This seems to be the natural progression I think considering the price and limited types of Quickloads.

Unless someone wants to help fund the arts and sell me 100 quickloads for 100 bucks

[atlcruiser]

Cams are not that big of a deal or all that expensive but I agree that the beauty of the crown/speed is the RF when it is correclty adjsuted.