Any tips for setting up a Chamonix 4x5 quickly/painlessly?

[engl]

I got my Chamonix 4x5 recently. I've been taking a bunch of photos over the last two weeks and have found a lot to like about the camera.

However, I'm not entirely happy about how long it takes to set up and "zero out". It seems like the only real zero detent is back tilt. There are tabs supposed to keep front tilt at zero, but there is considerable play in this mechanism.

Anyway, tilt is the least of my concerns, since I'll be aligning this using bubble levels. The front shift is not really a problem either, one millimeter one way or the other does not matter. The problem is back and front swing.

Back swing could be aligned once and left in place, but since I sometimes use a 75mm lens I need to move the back standard forward. Doing this often introduces back swing since the position on the left and right rails can differ by millimeters.

Aligning it requires lining up dots, which is the same way the front is aligned. Doing this on both standards is not easy in the dark, as I've been finding out over the last week.

Does anyone have suggestions for speeding up setup of this camera? I could very well be missing something, as there is no manual included with the camera.

Edit: I realize this is an inexpensive camera designed around low weight, it is amazing with or without the problems described above.

[tautatis]

Use it frequently and you will get the hang of it.

T.

[Kirk Gittings]

Just practice. I use a Phillips-similar design. You should be able to anticipate what lens and filter you need and be framed, set up and metering in a couple of minutes.

[Brian Ellis]

I never photographed in complete darkness so I don't know about lining up the dots in the dark, I can see where that would be a problem. But working in light I didn't find the Chamonix any more time-consuming to set up than most other LF cameras I've owned. Some have been a little faster - Linhof Master Technika for example. Some have been a lot slower - Linhof Technikardan for example. But compared to other wood field cameras, I thought the Chamonix was about average. Like others have said, if you do it enough it should become second-nature.

[engl]

Thanks for the replies. I have probably been a bit spoiled by working with press and technical type cameras in the past (Crown Graphic, MPP Mk7) which set up very fast.

I find the Chamonix sets up quickly enough in the comfort and light of my home. In the dark, 10 stories high, in a cramped stairway on the side of a building, it took a quite a bit more time. The dots are hard to see. Also, since the front swings even when "locked down", I find that I want to confirm that it has stayed put while I've been adjusting tilt/rise. Easy enough at home, more difficult when forced to stand behind the camera in the dark

As I use the camera more I'm sure I'll get more comfortable with it.

[Noah A]

I was going to suggest trading it for a technical camera since frankly it sounds like a pain in the neck to work with, but since you're happy with the camera otherwise, I would say the best thing to do is practice. Sounds like you have it mastered in good conditions, so maybe practice in the dark or practice setting it up from behind the camera (as you may have to do in a tight spot).

Perhaps if you need to set up in a tight or awkward situation, you can set up and zero the camera beforehand and walk to the spot with the camera already set up?

[Bob McCarthy]

I too am one of the new owners from the last batch.

Up until now I've only owned metal cameras.

When I first got it, I immediately thought, this sure seems delicate. But after 3 shooting sessions, I'm starting to get the camera. It is a matter of practice.

Initial thoughts,

the camera is perfectly square. all the set points are perfect. This is not the case with most field cameras, metal excluded. Don't worry about detents and markings, use your bubbles. I can feel when the front end is square and dont really need the markings, if you practice, by feel will be close to square on the front, close enough anyway..

the camera is a carbon camera with wood trim, not really a wood camera. I'm very impressed with the latest design. I've been looking for a Phillips Compact II, being a built in USA kind of guy, but this camera is nicely done. I see the latest 8x10 model follows this pattern (a change from the design on Utube) so it may be where I go next.

Gotta figure out the dark cloth issue. I use a 5x7 blackjacket. it's overkill and I can get away with something smaller/lighter.


Best part, I use a photo rucksack and with the camera, 3 lenses (90/6.8, 135/5.6 (the old fuji W not the latest=tiny) and a Nik 200M), with 3 film holders, meter etc, etc. Everything I need......

it only weights = (drum roll) 14 lbs.

Wow

bob

[lilmsmaggie]

Thanks for the replies. I have probably been a bit spoiled by working with press and technical type cameras in the past (Crown Graphic, MPP Mk7) which set up very fast.

I find the Chamonix sets up quickly enough in the comfort and light of my home. In the dark, 10 stories high, in a cramped stairway on the side of a building, it took a quite a bit more time. The dots are hard to see. Also, since the front swings even when "locked down", I find that I want to confirm that it has stayed put while I've been adjusting tilt/rise. Easy enough at home, more difficult when forced to stand behind the camera in the dark

As I use the camera more I'm sure I'll get more comfortable with it.

I'm a relative newb to LF and the Chamonix 45n-2 is my first LF camera. I've been shooting now for about a year and I have no trouble setting up the camera quickly.

As Kirk and others suggest: Just practice.

In terms of shooting in the dark/low-light. Take a tip from amatuer astronomer's toolkit: Get yourself one of those mini-LED flashlights and do one of two things:

1: Purchase the LED flashlight with Red LED's, or
2. Use rubylith film over the original lens.

There are many LED's to choose from. This link may help you decide:

http://www.photonlight.com/pages/Pho...am-Colors.html

[Jeffrey Sipress]

Swing? All you need to do is align the standard to be parallel to the frame with your thumbs before you tighten. It's rather easy.

[Jim Galli]

Nikon D3