Need something that's about 50% of Beyond the Zone System

[sully75]

Hello All,

So I got a used copy of Beyond the Zone System and WOW! I didn't get very far. Just seemed to get over the top for my needs pretty quickly.

I don't want to say that I'm lazy, but I probably am.

I don't think I'm going to get crazy with graphs and plotting curves and things like that. Probably my loss.

So...is there something that's like 50% of Beyond the Zone System? Some relatively simple guide that would get me in the ballpark? I don't think my negatives are terrible, but I'd like a bit more control. I'd be happy with consistently very good negatives, I don't need absolutely perfect.

Any suggestions? Pamphlets, web pages, other easy to understand things?

Lazily yours...

[jeroldharter]

I assume you are using sheet film.

Contact Fred at the View Camera Store. He will set you up with a Stouffer step wedge and tell you how to use it to expose 5 sheets of your film. Then you process the sheets at 4, 5.5. 8, 11, and 16 minutes. Send the film back to him and he will do the densitometer readings, run it through the plotter software, and then send you the graphs.

From the graphs, you can generate your "50% BTZS," which is what I have done.

I found the film speeds for SBR 5,6,7,8,9.
I made a chart which shows the proper exposure times for each EV for each SBR.
At home, you use one of the graphs to find the development time for each SBR.

For example, if I meter a normal scene and find a SBR of 7, I look on my graph for EV's corresponding to SBR 7 (corresponding film speed of 320). If middle of the highlight shadow EV reading was EV 10, then I find the desired exposure settings, say 1/2 at f32. In the darkroom, I know that the development time for SBR 7 is 8 minutes. I round off my SBR's to whole numbers so that I use only 5 development times. I mark the holder with stickers to indicate the SBR of the exposure, or I could use a note pad.

It sounds more complicated than it is. Basically, use the BTZS film testing service and then use those graphs to simplify your work. If there is modest spread in the film speed between SBR 5-9, then you might standardize to a single film speed (or err toward over exposure) which would make it easier in the field.

[AF-ULF]

Let's see. Something a bit easier than BTZS to understand. A simple guide to get you in the ball park? A bit more control on your negatives, producing very good negatives, but you don't need absolutely perfect?

I think it's called The Zone System.

[Robert Hughes]

IMO, you can make perfectly good photos using Sunny 16 as your guide, or if you want a little assistance, get an incident light meter. Just go out and shoot. Once you're comfortable with your process, and are interested in getting tricky, then move up to Zone System.

[Peter York]

Ansel Adam's The Negative

[Ben Calwell]

Sully75,
I'm not much of tester/technician either, but I did read Adams' "The Negative" and performed the film speed test he describes in it.
It's not too hard, so I would recommend you give that a try, and that should put you in the ballpark.
If I, as a man who doesn't yet understand my TV remote can do it, so can you.

[Jay DeFehr]

Shoot at box speed (sunny 16 rule is more than adequate), develop according to manufacturer's instructions, and print on VC paper. I'm not being sarcastic. This system was developed by experts over a long period of time, to assure the best results, most consistently, among the greatest number of users.

[Lachlan 717]

Have a look at Ken Lee's testing page.

[paulr]

Just one point of view ... it's great to understand the zone system for what it is: a conceptual framework for thinking about and controlling exposure and development.

But there's no compelling need to use it a system every time you photograph. And much less reason to go beyond it.

In most cases, you can get great, very consistent results with an abbreviated version. Like, put your important shadows on zone 3, then meter on your highlights and see where they fall. You'll probably find normal development works for you most of the time.

Sometimes you'll have to do + or - development. But it doesn't have to be rocket science. I kept it this simple for years and printed everything on grade 3 paper, making minor contrast adjustments through 2 tray print development.

It just takes some trial and error to get dialed in. If you did it the high-precision, calibrated way, it would take less trial and error, but you'd have to wrap your head around all that stuff. Depends on which approach appeals more to you.

[mdm]

BTZS is very simple. Rate at 2x box speed and meter for the shadows with an incident meter. If you want you can calculate the SBR by taking a reading in bright sun too, then you can increase or decrease development to get the contrast you want.

It is an excelent book to get your head around. You dont have to go the whole hog.