xtol 1:3 jobo 3010 less density on edges

[Jordan]

I did a batch of tri-x yesterday in xtol 1:3 and a good chunk of the negatives with a lot of smooth sky ended up with less density on the sky edge in the negative. I processed at about 70 degrees for 12 minutes. Aside from the strange edges the negs look pretty good. I've never had that trouble using hc110 for 9 minutes in the jobo 3010. Could that added development time had something to with it? Thanks.

[Bruce Watson]

What volume of chemistry? How fast was the drum turned? Reversing or not? What was turning the drum -- a Jobo processor? Hand rolling on a table?

Without more to go on, all I can tell you is that I've done hundreds of sheets of both Tri-X and TMY-2 in a 3010 tank in XTOL 1:3 and each and every one turned out just about perfect. It's normal to get excellent, even development corner to corner with a 3010 drum.

So give us more details; maybe we can figure out what's wrong in your case.

[Jon Wilson]

What volume of chemistry? How fast was the drum turned? Reversing or not? What was turning the drum -- a Jobo processor? Hand rolling on a table?

Without more to go on, all I can tell you is that I've done hundreds of sheets of both Tri-X and TMY-2 in a 3010 tank in XTOL 1:3 and each and every one turned out just about perfect. It's normal to get excellent, even development corner to corner with a 3010 drum.

So give us more details; maybe we can figure out what's wrong in your case.

Bruce, what ISO do you rate the TMY-2 and Tri-X. A friend was recently developing some Tri-X which was shot with a rating of ISO 100 and developed at 1:1 for 2:00. Although he used 35mm, I am trying to translate that information to my LF sheets.

Thanks. Jon

[Sirius Glass]

Using replenished XTOL will provide better tonality, ... . And properly done, the XTOL goes on "forever". I have been using it for over two years.

In a Jobo, do not pre-wet, develop the [full time + one minute] adjusted for the temperature and you will not ove the edge density problems.

[Asher Kelman]

Using replenished XTOL will provide better tonality, ... . And properly done, the XTOL goes on "forever". I have been using it for over two years.

In a Jobo, do not pre-wet, develop the [full time + one minute] adjusted for the temperature and you will not ove the edge density problems.

Sirius,

At what point in time does XTOL become aged sufficiently to become functionally "replenished XTOL", worthy of its name?

Asher

[Sirius Glass]

Sirius,

At what point in time does XTOL become aged sufficiently to become functionally "replenished XTOL", worthy of its name?

Asher

After each batch I replenish. That means up to four rolls of 135-16, or up to four rolls of 120, or up to ten 4x5s. I have never done any measurements of the changes between fresh and various stages of replenished developer. I do not have a density meter. I just use the stuff and I do not get into the endless testing and measuring cycles that some people drive themselves nuts with.

If I used fresh developer on one batch and replenished months later, I do not worry about the first batch ==> why? because there is nothing I can change in the negative from the first batch ... I just print it for the best result that can be achieved.

Since I have used a batch of replenished XTOL for over two years, I do not worry about it. When do I start over? When I do something stupid like spill too much of it or pour something into the bottle that I should not have.

[Ed Richards]

My experience is that pre-wetting made my negs much more uniform in the 3010 when using Xtol. I also use it one shot. Costs a little more, but is simpler. With TMY-2 Kodak quit recommending 1:3, so I switched to 1:1 or 1:2, and it seems to work about the same. Same volume of developer, just less distilled water.

[jeroldharter]

I always pre-wet with a jobo.

You might check that the Jobo, and the tank as it sits in the water bath, are level. Out of level could cause some problems.

[Sirius Glass]

The Jobo manual specifically states that when using XTOL, the film should NOT be prewet. Go argue with them.

Steve

[Ed Richards]

>The Jobo manual specifically states that when using XTOL, the film should NOT be prewet.

I followed their recommendations for the first couple of hundred of sheets. I noticed a consistent problem with skies. I started pre-wetting, and did not have the problem afterwards. YMMV