Is an X a P2, but without the multiple format and digital capabilities? Is there any meaningful difference for just shooting 4x5 film?
Is an X a P2, but without the multiple format and digital capabilities? Is there any meaningful difference for just shooting 4x5 film?
Ed Richards
http://www.epr-art.com
An X is supposed to be a less expensive aternative to the P. The standard bearers are the same, but there is theoretically no ability to interchange format frames on the rear standard bearer.
However, resourceful users have found a way around that which you should be able to find if you search this site.
Digital is possible with any back that is designed to work with 4X5 Sinar standards.
Digital as in a ~4x5 Better Light style scanning back would work best.
If you're looking for a P-X-P2 the condition of the individual unit matters more than it's age, I think. Some were used very heavily back in the day. To me, there is no reason a good P is not preferable to the P2 other than the color... and the older models don't have the silly metering backs (which account for having two unique 8x10 bellows, one type for MB and the other for Non-MBs). The good news is that parts and service are readily available from Sinar Bron or people like Bob Watson at precisioncameraworks.com.
If I remember correctly, the P2 has finer gearing than the X, and both the X and P2 come with a rail clamp 2, which is a little sturdier than the original rail clamp. That said, I agree with Frank: in good condition, all of these (P, X, P2) are very fine cameras. For most people, non-metering backs are slightly preferable. If you plan on changing formats, the P and the P2 are preferable to the X. Note that there's a special P and P2 8x10 rear standard. It's shaped more like a T, and it has more adjustment range. If you plan to do a lot of 8x10 work, it would make sense to get that standard.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
You can definitely use 5x7 or 8x10 backs on a sinar x, but the bearer is missing the color dots for centering the different formats. You can mark them yourself, or judge with the eye...
The P2 has slightly better gearing than the X. The X lacks the zero detents of the P2. On my X, the format interchangeability was exactly the same as on the P2, and it also had the different colored dots for the various formats, including one marked "Digital".
Kumar
If you are a cheapskate like me look for a P. They run much lower in price than the X and P2. I was patient on ebay and purchased a really clean, tight P with Schneider 210 lens with Copal shutter all in a plastic Calumet box for right around $600.00 including shipping. The lens alone sells for around $180.00 on average! Just beware as Frank says. A lot of Sinars were used up by professionals and have a lot of slop in them. Make sure that you ask plenty of questions before you bid. Also be aware that Sinar levels tend to dry up. It's no biggie, just use your own level.
Could a Sinar X/P hold a 5-pound lens on the front standard? I'm looking into getting a Sinar so I can use my Sinar Shutter and a monster E. Suter brass lens I got.
I wouldn't put a 5 pound lens on the front of a Sinar without special support. Not only would the gearing be stressed tremendously, so with the thin metal tabs that hold on lens boards. You'd be better off with a portrait camera, as these have solid fronts, and were specifically made to handle huge lenses. You could then use a packard or a sinar shutter, either in front of or behind the lens.
If you must use a Sinar, you'll have to come up with a cradle that goes from the rail to the middle of the lens, such that most of the wight of the lens goes directly to the rail. You then should probably also have an extra rail clamp right next to the cradle. Sinar did make an extension bar that holds two rail clamps. I used to have one. That might be enough, but it still might be too springy. Another option would be to run a monopod from the second rail clamp to the floor. As soon as you do that , though, re-framing the photograph becomes quite a rigamarole.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
I use a p (sold the x a while back) and I prefer it for studio. Norma for outdoors.
The 16" vitax or 16" E.Francais petzval are just fine attached to the front standard of the p.
But using large lenses with large aperture means that your sinar shutter is going to be more of a nuisance than anything else. You will need some intermediate bellow for clearance with the read of the lens, which often protrude inward (you just cannot attach the shutter). If you manage with the spacer, you will not be able to use the lens wide open.
I stand by J. Galli shutter.
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