I have a bellows that the glue between the front frame and the bellows is drying up, and I will have to re-glue it.
What do you suggest as a glue?
I have a bellows that the glue between the front frame and the bellows is drying up, and I will have to re-glue it.
What do you suggest as a glue?
Contact cement, I think, but it's been a long time since I've done so.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Contact Cement
Try removing any old loose adhesive first then contact adhesive as Peter suggests. That's what many of us use when fitting new bellows.
Ian
Another alternative to contact cement is automotive weatherstrip cement. It was recommended by a Beseler technician for installing bellows on a 45 ??? enlarger.
As was suggested to me by another (more experienced) member recently, Pliobond.
It works beautifully.
I had never replaced bellows before, and this was very easy and incredibly effective.
More info and photos here:
http://www.largeformatphotography.in...ghlight=linhof
Look to be a good choice as this remain flexible. Seems to be available at local Home Hardware.
Here the technical information about Pliobond http://www.phe-nordic.com/documents/00044.pdf
Pliobond is a type of contact cement. It comes in a small bottle with a brush. It works fine. Make sure that it hasn't been sitting on the shelf of the hardware store for a very long time.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Pliobond is fine, but I prefer some kind of mechanical clip attatchment, with the glue
merely serving as a light-tight gasket. Ideally, you want something which will stay
pliant over a wide temp range, not have corrosize solvents, and can be removed later for repair. Black silicone RTV sealants work well for this purpose, but shouldn't
be trusted in the long haul with some kind of mechanical security backing them up.
Barge Cement (aka shoe sole glue) can also be used for this purpose, but has the
disadvantage of not being black and of being analogous to nasty solvent contact cements, so could damage the lacquer of a wooden camera frame. Avoid ahesive water-based caulks like the plague because they get progressively brittle over time,
no matter what kind of BS is printed on the tube!
Ooop - typo again, I should have said, should not be trusted WITHOUT some kind of
mechanical (clamping) backup ...
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