Fastest shutter for an 8x10

[Bob Salomon]

Compur 3 went to 1/200, Compur 1 went to 1/500, Rollei Linear Motor 1 shutter goes to 1/300. Just find lenses that fit any of these shutters that cover the area that you want. Then, if necessary, get the shutter and have the lens installed in it. Note: Compur and Prontor are long out of production, Rollei shutter is extremely expensive as is its required controller and needed accessories.

[rjmeyer314]

I have a Graflex 8x10 focal plane shutter that will do up to 1/1000 second. These are obviously not made anymore since Graflex folded. They do come up from time to time on Ebay. They won't fit just any camera, they were usually made to fit specific model cameras. The one I have will fit my Century Universal, but won't fit my Seneca Competitor, or my Calumet C1.

[alharding]

These are all great suggestions. Thanks guys. I'll try to track down a Copal 1 shutter/ lens and try some other strobe speeds this weekend. Thanks to all for the comments.

Al Harding

[Bob Salomon]

I have a Graflex 8x10 focal plane shutter that will do up to 1/1000 second. These are obviously not made anymore since Graflex folded. They do come up from time to time on Ebay. They won't fit just any camera, they were usually made to fit specific model cameras. The one I have will fit my Century Universal, but won't fit my Seneca Competitor, or my Calumet C1.

But what shutter speed for X synch with electronic flash when using that shutter?

[Bob McCarthy]

I'm looking for a shutter. or a wide lens with a shutter that will cover 8x10 and has a shutter speed that is faster than 1/125. I've been told that this may not be something I can find. I need to stop a fast moving object dead and this isn't happening even with a strobe a 1/125 although its close. Any suggestions on makes models of lenses/copal 3 shutters that have high shutter speeds. I'm sure this would be easier with a smaller format, but I'm committed to doing it in 8x10.

Thanks,

Al Harding

Al if you want to stop the motion, remove all ambient light by stopping the lens way down and use strobe to light the object. Strobe-lights fire for really short durations and freeze objects. Thats been discussed above.

With a leaf shutter this is a simple issue as X sync works at any f stop or shutter speed. Just kill any ambient light by stopping down, not necessarily faster shutter.

Can you work in a low light enviornment to make that easy? The key is to work in low levels of ambient light.

bob

[Drew Wiley]

The fastest speeds on leaf shutters are almost always way off. Copals are generally
very bad at the top two marked speeds. I've owned a couple of Compurs that were
spot on every speed, but an electronic shutter might be better. Of course, going strobe is an even better idea if the subject matter warrants it.

[Bob Salomon]

The fastest speeds on leaf shutters are almost always way off. Copals are generally
very bad at the top two marked speeds. I've owned a couple of Compurs that were
spot on every speed, but an electronic shutter might be better. Of course, going strobe is an even better idea if the subject matter warrants it.

A shutter is at the correct speed if it is ±30% of that speed.

[IanG]

I have a Graflex 8x10 focal plane shutter that will do up to 1/1000 second. These are obviously not made anymore since Graflex folded. They do come up from time to time on Ebay. They won't fit just any camera, they were usually made to fit specific model cameras. The one I have will fit my Century Universal, but won't fit my Seneca Competitor, or my Calumet C1.

There were far more Thornton Pickard focal plane shutters made, and for longer (from 1893), these were made to be adapted to many 10x8 camera backs, had a 1/1000th top speed, but a s Bob say, flash synch would be when the shutter slit was full frame and that would be a lowish shutter speed. If you could rig up flash sync it would be around 1/25th, maybe less

TP shutters were sold by Burke & James in the US, often with their nameplate on them.

Ian

[John Koehrer]

Darkened room, shutter at B or T and electronic flash. If you can get the light close enough tho the subject 1/5,000, 1/10,000 should be possible

[Ivan J. Eberle]

Short duration flash may not provide sufficient illumination for 8x10 stopped down far enough to exclude blurring from ambient light, at least not without a that faster shutter. Ganging multiple sync'd flash heads and using very slow emulsions may help.