I presume you are wanting to do some wide open stuff with odd focal plane shifts, in which case a faster lens may be better. There are a number of f5.6 150mm lenses.
I presume you are wanting to do some wide open stuff with odd focal plane shifts, in which case a faster lens may be better. There are a number of f5.6 150mm lenses.
Thanks for all the replies. The 90mm t/s is a great lens only it doesn't allow me to get close enough. I have the 180mm macro Canon and it is an excellent lens. I know of at least one other photographer who has created a camera like this and using a APO enlarging lens feels that the image quality is better and also you have the ability to manipulate focus with the camera movements. I'm hoping that with the geared movements of the horseman I will be able to affect greater DOF. Plus, it is a kit I can build upon, eventually using a scan back which is what the big boys are doing.
The Canon MP-e 65mm lens would be my first choice, but you couldn't use it on the Horseman, so no movements. A reversed enlarger lens may give you better resolution and it should be fairly easy to find or build an adaptor to the lens board. http://www.photomacrography.net would be a good place to ask questions about macro lens.
Here's a link to a few images of my macro studio setup: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v6...20Pano%20Head/ It does focus stacked macro panoramas and a typical final image may contain 1000 individual images. Not exactly what you would want to do with film
I've just started experimenting with a 4X5 camera, but I don't expect to be able to create the same types of images as with the DSLR.
To be honest all you need is a macro 55 nikon ais with a eos adaptor, mucking about with adaptor plates and large format lenses is a waste of time and effort, the quality of that lens will be unsurpassed using that camera. Obviously if you were shooting 5x4 that would be a different matter but as your not, KISS ( keep it simple )
We do this day in and day out:
http://www.rauantiques.com/jewelry/d...onds&follow=no
We use LEAF Medium Format Digital backs mounted on Sinar P2's, Rodenstock APO lenses. For us, the most important thing is that the MFD backs don't have an aliasing filter and, therefore, provide a clarity that a 35mm digital camera can't begin to compare to. We're using them tethered and have Live View which, on our screens, provides almost an 8x10 image to focus and manipulate. And, as others have mentioned, lighting is key. Good luck! Jewelry is quite challenging.
The Nikkor apo 120 is an amazing lens, I used it for medical micro instrument photography. At 1:1 and going up to 2:1 you have to watch your movements but the swings and tilts can give you the DOF you need, also a 2x3 back helps with the movements. Macro with 4x5 is also amazing. If you have enough bellow movements then look into a 210 apo macro. Nikon had one that wasn't that available, the Rodenstock Apo-Sironar or maybe it ws the Macro-Sironar will give you all the movements you need. With 4x5 at 1:1 you really have to watch dust, can really get in the way. I'm on the road and don't have an image from this set up on this computer.
Tom
PM me if you are interested in my never-used Nikkor AM ED 120 at a reasonable price.
What about using an apo enlarging lens reversed? Or get a short FL apo process lens, like a 4" red dot artar and jury rig it to a bellows setup...
Thom
I had a look rauAntiquess.com Some business you work for, can you please be more specific on the lens and back you use forjeweleryy? Very good DOF is it stacking? What lighting techniques, is it studio flash or continuouse?
If you don't mind shearing of cause.
On my sample I used 3 X HID 150W with Bowen's 60x 60 soft-boxes for main and fill plus 20degree honeycombmbe add 2f ND through transparentent table.
I also have 200mp scanning back with I only lerning how to use if anyone have used Kigamo 8000 and feel like share experience?
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