Lens for jewelry photography

[Markethej]

I am currently putting together a camera to be used for jewelry photography. I am starting with a Horseman 450. I'm going to use a manufactured back plate in order to mount a Canon 5D II. Now for the lens. The Schneider 150 G-Claron has been recommended and is a very economical choice either with or without a shutter. I don't need a shutter in the lens since I will be using the focal plane shutter in the camera. I understand that this lens was designed as a "copy" or "process" lens and is tack sharp; this is good. The question is that since this lens is designed for 1:1 reproduction, how will it perform at higher magnifications? A diamond ring for example will need to fill 2/3 of the vertical frame. Is this a good lens for this use or should I bite the bullet and drop the cash on a designated "macro"?

Replies much appreciated as long as they aren't comments about my sanity.

[Gem Singer]

The Nikon/Nikkor f5.6 -AM ED 120 was designed for the type of close-up photography you are planning on doing.

There was one for sale on this forum recently.

(By all means, "bite the bullet". You won't be sorry that you did)

[David Aimone]

My understanding is the G-Claron is good for 2-dimensional work, but the Nikkor would be better for 3-dimensional subjects?

[Dan Fromm]

My understanding is the G-Claron is good for 2-dimensional work, but the Nikkor would be better for 3-dimensional subjects?

Stuff and nonsense! Lens designers try to design lenses that image a plane on to a plane.

According to Schneider (see http://www.schneiderkreuznach.com/archiv/pdf/gcn.pdf) G-Clarons are intended for use between 1:5 and 5:1. They're usable, not too bad, at all distances.

I've had a 150/9 G-Claron, sold it. Still have a 150/9 Apo-Ronar. At distance the Apo-Ronar was better. OP, your used lens may be better than my used lens. Or worse.

OP, it sounds like you'll be shooting around 3:1 - 6:1. Ain't easy, requires exacting technique. To learn about the technique, buy a copy of Lester Lefkowitz' book The Manual of Closeup Photography. Don't spend money on lenses until you've read the book and thought hard for a while.

[Drew Wiley]

The G-Claron will be decent and at the same time usable for a wide range of work, even at infinity. But it will not be equal at 1:1 or greater magnification to a dedicated
macro lens, which will be good only at macro and cost way more. Folks who specialize
in shooting tiny jewelery will invest in the latter. Probably won't make much difference
for a small web of postcard ad for jewelery, but with more serious enlargement, it
certainly will.

[Sevo]

First of all, invest in building a tabletop studio rig. Way before the difference between a G-Claron and dedicated macro lens become visible you'll have to battle vibration and get the stuff well lit.

[argos33]

I have the same setup except using a Wista SP. I found with high magnifications a 150mm lens will use a lot of bellows, but for the Horseman it should be ok.

I have used Repro-Clarons at high magnifications with very good results. Also enlarging lenses can work very well too if used correctly. Some perform much better reverse-mounted.

As Dan and Sevo point out, there are a lot of challenges with macro work but the advantage of the DSLR back is that you can experiment and see what is working much quicker than film. Also, if your planning on using primarily the DSLR than there is no need for a shutter on the lens - which means you can try various barrel lenses for cheap. If none of them are up to your standards/usability then maybe try renting a dedicated macro lens and compare.

[Henry Ambrose]

I have to ask.....

Why not a Canon TS 90mm lens?

[Ramiro Elena]

I have to ask.....

Why not a Canon TS 90mm lens?

Yeah, me too. Or even a nice macro lens such as the Nikkor 105mm or its Canon equivalent. Why is it TS capability important in this case? I've done some jewelry shooting for my wife and found lighting more important, besides getting truly close to the piece.

[Ed Richards]

TS can be useful if you are doing mini-still life jewelery shots. No LF lens is going to come close to being as sharp in this situation as the 90mm TS, esp. when you factor in that the 4x5 camera is WAY too coarse in its movements to really line things up for 5D II levels of precision. I would blow off the movements and get a cheap Canon 100mm macro if cost is the reason you are considering this. It will still way out perform any LF lens for this sort of work.

Of course, you could just use a piece of 4x5 film in that camera and blow away the 5D II.:-)