Ok, so it looks like there are 7 ink slots. So you could go:
HP PK
30% HP PK (i.e. LK density)
18% HP PK (i.e. LLK density)
6% HP PK
MIS K4 LK (a warm toner)
MIS K4 LLK (a lighter warm toner)
Glop (MIS or HP)
Alternatively, you could get rid of one of the MIS inks and use a 2% HP PK.
Using QTR, this would allow you to print coolish to warm on PK papers, using glop to get rid of any bronzing.
HP PK (Vivera 70 Twin Pack-cb340A) is a moderately inexpensive way to get the HP ink.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
I get the logic. My confusion lies in the execution. I know little about setting up qtr for linearity and different ink sets including glop.
But, I'm willing to sort it out. Guess I have some homework to do.
Peter what's involved, is there a site with baseline info?
.
I'm a little surprised bubble jet tech works with piezo. I thought there was a major diff in viscosity?
Bob
Hi Bob,
Yes, the HP ink is a little less viscous than the Epson ink, but not by much. I've used HP PK in my 4880 with no issues, and PR has done so in a number of Epson printers. If anything, they're less likely to clog than the Epson inks. To get the dilute inks, you dilute the HP PK in one of Paul's ink bases, and these bases are standard Epson viscosity. I can send you the specifics.
Do you have a spectro for prints? That really makes linearizing the inkset much easier. I wouldn't mess with a custom inkset unless you have a spectro handy.
I'm waiting on a maintenance tank for my 4880. After it arrives, I'll make a few more prints with my matte inkset and then switch it out for a HP PK one, at least I will as soon as I can afford it.
All of this is a fairly big investment, cartridges, ink and ingredients, scale, funnels, bottom feed adapters (to prime cartridges), QTR.... not to mention time, and it can be a bit frustrating. Thus your really want to consider if it's something you want to do. Cone's glossy set is much more turn key, but the DIY set should be more stable, and it'll allow you to change from cool to warm without changing papers.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
I love a challenge, so diy does appeal.
I have always used canned profiles, so I have very few instincts. Is a spectro another name for meter. I do have a color analyser I used in my color darkroom years ago. Hasn't been turned on in years.
What about scanning can it substitute for a spectro?
I read a bit about inks this afternoon on Paul Roark's site. It's the creation of profiles and how to make each ink position do what one wants that has me drawing blanks.
Bob
Last edited by Bob McCarthy; 2-Feb-2011 at 15:36. Reason: Changed densitometer to analyzer
A spectrophotometer can measure LAB values of paper and ink-on-paper. I have a Print Fix Pro. You generally don't need one, unless you're making profiles. Paul Roark has a page on using a scanner, but it's not as good of a solution. Perhaps you can borrow a spectro locally, or I could lend you mine for a few weeks. I could write profiles for your 9600 based on my 4880, assuming we use the same inkset.
I'll look up my QTR resources. Basically, you print a calibration page using QTR's calibration mode. This prints a gradient of each ink. You make a judgment call on where more ink doesn't lead to more seperation of tone, usually someone around 70-90%. You then change the ink limit in QTR to that number and print another calibration page. Take some readings. Looking at the readings you'll see that the highest density of each ink equals a certain percentage of the black ink. For example, your black ink might reach a max density of 2.2, whereas your next darkest ink goes only to 1.8. You then specify in QTR to use the black ink at 100%, and you specify all of the lighter inks in terms of their density relative to the black ink. (You also set individual ink limits). Once done, you print a 21-step step wedge, and read the densities. In the QTR tutorial included with QTR, it'll list ideal densities for various max densities. Your goal is to get as close to those densities as possible, using the ink crossover points and limits to make adjustments. It's not too bad. You don't have to get it perfect. Once that's done, you enter the densities of the step wedge printed through the latest version of the profile into the linerization tab of the calibration page, and you're done. The tutorial that comes with QTR is very good. I printed it off to read through.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
I may have a line on a local meter. JB has one for sale, I'll talk to him about it.
Time to read the qtr manuals.
Are you using HP based ink set?
Btw, thanks for the help.
Bob
Bob, I mixed up some for use in my old 2400, but it died before I loaded the ink set.
Perhaps I should get it going in my 4880. I could then send you a print for your evaluation. I'm not sure what your time frame is, though, as it might be awhile before I can buy the supplies.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks