I'm setting up my processor so I shot this to test the development time. This is a straight raw dslr scan with no post processing. I'm going to print it in the darkroom tonight. Film is FP4+.
I'm setting up my processor so I shot this to test the development time. This is a straight raw dslr scan with no post processing. I'm going to print it in the darkroom tonight. Film is FP4+.
Fabulous. Minimalist.
Ha Ha darn, I don't know how I missed attaching the image.
https://steveruddyphotography.com/im...0test00886.jpg
Looks like a positive.How does this negative look? https://steveruddyphotography.com/im...0test00886.jpg
Positive to me also
Just hold the negative up to a window and snap a photo with your cell phone.
I need to be shot. Here it is, and the streaks are from a 20th Century holder Jerry told me would work with the Kickstarter. Well as you can see it doesn't. It holds the film on both sides by about 1/4" and the middle holder is too tight to the emulsion. I switched to a Mod54 holder and no development issues with it at all. I shot this using a meter to control my flash. The dark thing is a level that I used to hold that corner down.
For my taste, I would like a bit more exposure and somewhat less contrast, but I could deal with that. For my style, the thin areas should separate more from the bare film. I like to see a lot of shadow detail, and I don't mind having some to throw away, but if it isn't there, it isn't there. If you just added exposure to get better shadows, the dense areas would be too dense for me, and maybe they are already. . . it's hard to tell from something like this.
Thanks, but I'd rather just watch:
Large format: http://flickr.com/michaeldarnton
Mostly 35mm: http://flickr.com/mdarnton
You want digital, color, etc?: http://www.flickr.com/photos/stradofear
I see the negative as normally exposed and slightly flat, which is good for reproduction because it is much more efficient to increase contrast rather than reduce it. If an attempt were made to make an exhibition silver print from this were made, one might find a Grade 3 most appropriate. A bit more development at the same EI or perhaps at bit higher should print well on Grade 2.
It looks like a winner! I agree with neal, it does seem a bit flat but that could also be due to the quality of light!
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