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Thread: Which camera for table top/macro work?

  1. #1

    Which camera for table top/macro work?

    Shooting MF once I've found that I need movements of the view camera. May I ask for any advice on what camera should I buy for still- life/product photography. I consider shooting 6X9. The main plan is 4X5 monorail plus 6X9 back. What lense s 65mm, 75mm, 90mm to prefer? (I was told that product shoots need more movement s and expensive lenses).Does yaw-free design really helps in table-top? I do hav e a limited budget, so which is the cheapest way to go. Help the beginner, pleas e.

    Thanks in advance, Oleg Dersky

  2. #2

    Which camera for table top/macro work?

    I have been very pleased with my sinar F2 and a 150mm G-Claron when doing products/table top on 6x9 roll film. The 150mm gives you a good working distance which makes lighting a little easier. If you wanted to spend the money a Sinar X or P would give you the added benefit of aymmetrical calibrated movements.

  3. #3

    Which camera for table top/macro work?

    Still life photography without yawfree geared movements is a nighmare in the making!

    If you can afford it buy a Sinar P or P2 (actually there are some terrific deals at times on ebay). A Sinar f2 would be my second choice as you can easily upgrade to a P system just by adding a P or P2 back rear standard + frame.

    An Apo Sironar 210mm would be a good lens for 4X5 for regular table top photography. For 6X9 you could use the same lens too although you may want to get a slightly shorter lens, such as an Apo Macro Sironar 180mm...

    If you really want to concentrate on macro work the 120mm AM ED Nikkor or 120 Macro Symmar HM or the 120mm Apo Macro Sironar 120mm are incredible.

    (Actually I have successfully used a 55 Micro Nikkor (for a 35mm Nikon)- hot glued - onto a Sinar lens board. At high magnification and around f16 the sharpness of that inexpensive combination is quite amazing!)

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Posts
    105

    Which camera for table top/macro work?

    You are on the right track with choosing a monorail. Field or flatbed cameras are not meant for these sort of movements and might not have enough bellows extension. I can't help with the lenses, since I just use what I have and these are not made for macro. I would think that the more magnification you want, the smaller (shorter) your lens can be, you "stretch" the bellows further out. This is only opinion.... You don't absolutely need a yaw free camera, but it probably would save some time and aggravation. As always, meter carefully, allow for bellows extension and bellows factor, and use a Polaroid to verify exposure, lighting and focus. Focus will be very critical.

  5. #5

    Which camera for table top/macro work?

    If you are on a tight budget, you have several options. The nicest close up lenses for super close up work are is a lens like a schneider 80mm componon mounted in a shutter, these can be made and they are incredible for close up work. Another option is searching out a 135mm Schneider Repro Claron. These are dirt cheap, because there is not much of a calling for a process lens that will not cover 4x5. This lens is a favorite of Roger Hicks, and he uses it in combination with a Linhof mounted with a 6x7 back for table top work. I personally use a 150mm g claron, these are pretty cheap on ebay, and are awesome. I shoot 3x or 4x with this lens and bellows extension is not that bad, and the only problem I have is sometimes with a lens that short you are almost on top of what you are shooting, sometimes that makes it very difficult to light your subject. Product shots do need more movements sometimes, but usually you are working so close that your image circle is not that much of a concern. Another thing to remember is that if you are using strobe and have a lot of extension, you usually need lots of power, and you will proably end up multi popping to get the f-stop you need. I work with a 2000 w/s ELinchrom pack, and end up mutipopping sometimes as much as 24 times to get

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Mar 1998
    Posts
    1,972

    Which camera for table top/macro work?

    yaw free is definitely a major advanage anytime you need to incline the base ofthe camera and use tilt and swing camera movements. Look for a used Sinar P, P2, X, C or C2 camera. If you can't find any of these an Arca-Swiss F-line metric is the equal of any of the top ofthe line Sinars. i really, really , really dislike the Sinar F cameras, but if you want a Sinar F then look for a Sinar F2. I prefer a 90mm f/4.5 as a "normal" lens for the 6x9cm format but the Schneider 110mm f/5.6XL is possibly the best lens you'll ever own.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Mar 1998
    Posts
    1,972

    Which camera for table top/macro work?

    yaw free is definitely a major advanage anytime you need to incline the base ofthe camera and use tilt and swing camera movements. Look for a used Sinar P, P2, X, C or C2 camera. If you can't find any of these an Arca-Swiss F-line metric is the equal of any of the top ofthe line Sinars. i really, really , really dislike the Sinar F cameras, but if you want a Sinar F then look for a Sinar F2. I prefer a 90mm f/4.5 as a "normal" lens for the 6x9cm format but the Schneider 110mm f/5.6XL is possibly the best lens you'll ever own.

    A 135mm f/5.6 will also be an excellent economical choice if you aren't cramped for space.

  8. #8

    Which camera for table top/macro work?

    I found that, for single items or three-in-a-row, using 6,000 watt- seconds of light I could manage without movements most of the time.

    I needed movements for silver plates, and managed OK with a Hasselblad Flexbody and a Macro-planar 120, and left the Sinar p in its bag.

    I had intended to use the 555ELD on one end of the Sinar, and the 150mm lens I had mounted on a sunken panel for the purpose on the other, but did not have time to test this outfit and get up to speed with it.

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