what is a good 8x10 macro lens?

**mdm** · 17-Dec-2010, 23:44

So if you are making a photo of a sculpture a foot wide, that is like a head shot in portraiture. Try a lens that you have already. Probably anything will do. Seems to me to be a normal thing to do with a lens designed for 8x10.

If you want to make a picture of something much smaller that that, it will be easier on 4x5 and there are better lenses available. Very small stuff is easiest with a very small format, like 35mm or digital.

**Mark Woods** · 18-Dec-2010, 00:35

David,

It's very disappointing to read your comment about shooting macro being easier with small format. This is a LF forum, and I don't think "easy" is part of a LFer's vocabulary. If it was s/he'd be shooting with his/her iPhone! Please......

**mdm** · 18-Dec-2010, 01:11

I wonder what Ken Lee is photographing with this. Looks like 90cm extension and we could assume he has his 210mm Macro Sironar on the front. So the object in front of the camera is max 1/4 the size of a sheet 5x7 film. Something that would fit into the palm of your hand. What does it take to put something like that onto a sheet of 8x10 film. 2m bellows extension? What sort of depth of field are you working with? Of course, you know that already.

**Tony Karnezis** · 18-Dec-2010, 02:02

I use a Nikkor 210mm f/5.6 AM ED macro lens.

**Dan Fromm** · 18-Dec-2010, 05:05

Originally Posted by Mark Woods

David,

It's very disappointing to read your comment about shooting macro being easier with small format. This is a LF forum, and I don't think "easy" is part of a LFer's vocabulary. If it was s/he'd be shooting with his/her iPhone! Please......

Mark, shooting a moving subject at "reasonable" magnification with a press, technical, or view camera is usually a waste of effort and film. For this application a handheld fast-acting SLR with auto diaphragm is needed. Handheld and SLR to maintain focus and composition as the subject moves. Fast-acting with auto diaphragm so that focus isn't lost between the time the photographer decides to shoot and the exposure is taken.

I got into photography to take record shots of unconstrained live fish in aquaria. The 35 mm SLR or, nowadays, the digital equivalent is the camera of choice for this application. It is also still the camera of choice for shooting flowers that aren't well immobilized. I shoot flowers with 2x3 Graphics, really miss the ability to use KM in a Nikon when shooting, e.g., Milkweed blooms.

As a cinematographer you're used to having complete control over everything. Those of us who shoot closeup out-of-doors don't have that luxury. It would be nice to have.

Cheers,

Dan

**Tony Karnezis** · 18-Dec-2010, 10:54

Originally Posted by myoptic

My bias is always toward the least expensive option that will get the job done well...

Originally Posted by Drew Wiley

Haven't tried any of my Apo Nikkor process lenses, since they're not shuttered, but I suspect some of them might be even better.

Search the Flowers Anyone? thread in Image Sharing and Discussion. You will see a wide selection of lenses used, including several beautiful 5x7 images by Ken Lee taken with 240mm and 360mm APO Nikkor Process lenses (among others). Most are in barrel, but if you are shooting 1:1 or greater using available light with slow film, your exposures will likely be long enough to just use a lens cap or dark slide for the shutter as others have mentioned.

You should be able to pick up one of these lenses for $100-$150. I used a 240 until I picked up the 210 Nikkor ED Macro. I bought the latter it because it was a great deal, not because I needed it, but the shutter does help when I shoot in bright light on TMY.