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Thread: developing bw 4x5 film (by a newbie)

  1. #1

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    developing bw 4x5 film (by a newbie)

    i have a distinct feeling that a question like this has already been asked. However, after 15 minutes of combing through the search function, i'm lead back to posting a new thread. I apologize for my impatience with technology.

    I've been a 35mm shooter for quite some time, developing my own film. I don't have access to a dark room and will need a daylight safe tank. The two I am looking at are the
    HP Combi-Plan
    and the
    BTZS tubes (which I would have to duck tape my door shut) It won't be pretty.

    I want to know if there are any other options out there? What methods have you found that gives you teh most consistent results?

  2. #2
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    Re: developing bw 4x5 film (by a newbie)

    Quote Originally Posted by dikaiosune01 View Post
    ...The two I am looking at are the
    HP Combi-Plan
    and the
    BTZS tubes (which I would have to duck tape my door shut) It won't be pretty.

    I want to know if there are any other options out there?
    I'm not a beginner but I am going to try my hand again with black and white sheet film, and I'm perhaps a little ahead of you in this process.

    In addition to the Combiplan and the BTZS systems, there is also a Jobo 2500-series tank with the 2509N reels, and the Jobo 3000-series Expert tank. The Expert tank is the best and most expensive option, and its adherents are unsympathetic to those unwilling to spend that much (which means they think it's the best thing out there).

    My disposable income is not abundant at the moment, so I opted for buying a used 2551 tank and 2509N reel. These reels will hold six sheets of 4x5 (or 9x12) film, and that particular tank will hold two reels. The tanks are designed for rotary processing, which can be nothing more complex than some cheap casters screwed to a board, or a band around one end so that it rolls flat back and forth on a table top.

    The Jobo has an advantage over the BTZS tubes. Those tubes require dim enough light to not damage the film when the cap is removed to place in the stop bath. Absolute darkness is apparently not necessary, but dim light is. The BTZS system also uses a number of tubes, one for each sheet, so processing six sheets requires a bit enough float batch for all the tubes. Thus, it takes up a lot more counter space than the Jobo.

    There are conflicting reports about the evenness of developing using the Jobo 2500-series tanks. Suffice to say that many people have had complete success with them, while some complain of uneven development caused by turbulence during processing. I'm hoping my experience will go with the majority.

    The 2500-series Jobo can also be used for inversion agitation and for stand processing, but it takes a LOT of chemistry--something like 1.5L per reel, versus 560ml for both reels when using a roller.

    The only complaints I found about the Combiplan concern the slow emptying and filling of the tank.

    There is also a sheet-film holder that has been announced on this forum (and recently, too) that fits in a tall Paterson tank. If you already have such a tank, it might be worth consideration.

    Since you don't have a darkroom, tray processing is not an option. But that won't keep people from suggesting it anyway.

    The only system that has not produced any reports of uneven development has been the Jobo Expert drum mentioned above. I've even seen reports of uneven development for people using deep tanks and hangers. I used those for years and never had the slightest hint of unevenness, so I have to think some of those reported problems may be related to other issues. Maybe those who are ready to spend $400-500 for an Expert tank have already earned their stripes using approaches that require more care. Any of the systems require meticulous technique, though some are more meticulous than others.

    Rick "suspecting also that some developer/film combinations work better for rotary processing than others" Denney

  3. #3
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    Re: developing bw 4x5 film (by a newbie)

    No matter which daylight developing tank you choose, you will need total darkness while loading film into the tank.

    A changing tent can be used if you don't have a bathroom or closet that you can temporarily make light tight.

    The HP Combi-Plan tank is a good choice for developing sheet film by inversion agitation or stand development.

    Look into the Jobo system of tanks and drums if you prefer the rotary agitation method.

    The new MOD sheet film reels that are made to fit into Paterson roll film tanks look promising.

  4. #4

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    Re: developing bw 4x5 film (by a newbie)

    I am a newbie too. I got the Jobo 2500 series tank from Freestyle as a kit which includes the base and loader. The loader was useful in the beginning since I was not completely oriented with the system but after a while I could and prefer to hand load the reels. The uneven development is caused by jerky motion which can cause the developer to splash around, missing part of the film. I cured that by 1) using more developer and 2) try to rotate the tank smoothly. I bought a little motorize car from Toys R Us, turned it upside down and used that as my motorized base. Works pretty well.

    The MOD reel on ebay is a pretty neat design and certainly easier to load but for me the outer two sheets always fall out. Also it uses a lot of developer. I prefer the JOBO.

  5. #5

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    Re: developing bw 4x5 film (by a newbie)

    I had extremely good results using the Unicolor 8x10 drums. Downside is that you can only do 4 sheets at a time, but they are cheap, can be found on Ebay with no problems, plus they use very little chemicals . I load mine in a changing bag since I don't have a dark room as well.

  6. #6
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    Re: developing bw 4x5 film (by a newbie)

    I use both the HP Combi-Plan and BZTS tubes. The each work very well, but you really kinda need a darkroom for the tubes.

    The tank is great, so long as you are developing 6 sheets for the same conditions. I use it for all of my press camera work (which is mostly shot with an automatic flash).

    I use BZTS tubes for 8x10 and the 4x5 film that I shoot with the field camera (and take notes on). If you are using the zone system or a modified zone system, these really work well. It can get a little old to spin tubes for 20 minutes, but it really isn't that bad.

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