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Thread: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

  1. #81

    Join Date
    May 2006
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    1,382

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Sandy,

    I used this method first time yesterday and am impressed with it. I have used Rollo-Pyro all these years. One big question: the negatives from my third load, I used Jobo 3005, seemed not properly developed, all five sheets. I could barely see the images and I have to throw them away. Do you think the developers were exhausted then? I used 1:20 at both a and b and they are fresh.

    Thanks,
    Hugo

  2. #82

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
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    South Carolina
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    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Quote Originally Posted by Hugo Zhang View Post
    Sandy,

    I used this method first time yesterday and am impressed with it. I have used Rollo-Pyro all these years. One big question: the negatives from my third load, I used Jobo 3005, seemed not properly developed, all five sheets. I could barely see the images and I have to throw them away. Do you think the developers were exhausted then? I used 1:20 at both a and b and they are fresh.

    Thanks,
    Hugo

    Hugo,

    I don't recommend re-using the solutions when you are rotary processing. Just dilute 1:20, use the minimum amount needed for the drum, and discard the solutions after one run.

    Sandy
    http://www.sandykingphotography.com/
    For discussion and information about carbon transfer please visit the carbon group at Yahoo.
    https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...nTransfer/info

  3. #83

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    The folks at Phototherm are setting up my FP-1 to do Pyrocat-HD according to Sandy's recommendations in the beginning of this thread. They are balking at using acetic acid as a stop bath, saying it will damage the check valves. Is there an alternative? Can I use water? and for how long. Many thanks for all the shared information!

  4. #84

    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    91

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Sandy, several years have passed since this thread was posted, and I was wondering if you and others are still using Photoflo in Sol. A of Pyro-HD?

    Quote Originally Posted by sanking View Post
    You can add the Photoflo at the beginning, as part of Solution A, or you could add it later, so long as you add it before draining and placing the film in Solution B. I always add it at the beginning, when I mix working Solution A.

    Sandy

  5. #85

  6. #86
    おせわに なります! Andrew O'Neill's Avatar
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    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Sandy, several years have passed since this thread was posted, and I was wondering if you and others are still using Photoflo in Sol. A of Pyro-HD?
    I do… actually I use Fuji's version, Dry-Well. I also give film a stop more exposure when 2-bath is anticipated.

  7. #87
    おせわに なります! Andrew O'Neill's Avatar
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    Sep 2003
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    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Dug up a test I did comparing 2-bath and single bath. Film was HP5+. Done with BTZS tube. 1+10 for the two-bath. 6ml of A and B, each in their own cap with 60ml water. Temperature was held at 24C. Water presoak was given at same temperature for 3 minutes. Cap A got 5 drops of Drywell (Fuji's version of Photoflo). Film received vigorous agitation in both A and B, 5 minutes each.

    For single bath (image on the left), BTZS tube as well, I gave N-7 development, which in my case is 4 minutes at 21C. No presoak was given.

    Both negatives look very good. You can clearly see the 2-bath negative's highlight compensation. I should also add that I placed the darkest shadow under the chair on zone V. About a stop higher than normal.
    These are straight scans. Only the black and white points were touched in the scanning software.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2BathCompare.jpg  

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