If you are putting Photo-flo in your Jobo, or any other drum, the next problem for which you will be seeking an answer is why the edges of the film are over-developed. Photo-flo becomes a catalyst as it builds up on on the tank, which it will.
If you are putting Photo-flo in your Jobo, or any other drum, the next problem for which you will be seeking an answer is why the edges of the film are over-developed. Photo-flo becomes a catalyst as it builds up on on the tank, which it will.
Is there no remedy for the build up of Photo Flo?Originally Posted by Jim Noel
Sandy
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Steel wool perhaps? Facetiously grinning.
Since Pryocat in all of it's various forms is a staining developer, isn't the stain being applied to the tanks, reels and drums as well? Are these a problem? Surely good cleaning practices will at least prolong the lifespan of the tankage and reelage.
Or should we all just go straight to digital?
Wayne
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Here's the method I learned for removing Photo-Flo residue from tanks and reels; a regular 'purge' in 100F water for 10 minutes or so. That was the weekly practice at the custom lab where I worked, c.1978. (I processed around 100 rolls of b/w a week there). As I use pyro developer in a tray, I can't say anything about stain buildup on reels; perhaps an acid, stop-bath type rinse might remove any that remains.
I have many stained reels and tanks that work exactly like my many unstained reels and tanks. I wash my tanks and reels in hot water after each use, and have never seen any build-up of anything. Maybe I'm just lucky!
What type of agitation for those of us who do not have a Jobo, but use trays.
I do tray development* , and follow these instructions.
The first step is basically "uptake" of the Solution A into the emulsion: you want the film to absorb it fully, and agitation helps that. PhotoFlo helps it happen evenly.
The second step is where the developer gets activated, and where compensation occurs because it becomes quickly exhausted in the highlights but proceeds in the low values. You want to agitate enough to get the activator to the emulsion, but not so much as to disturb the compensating effect. That's why intermittent agitation is best in Solution B.
* Actually, I use plastic food containers: much cheaper and better for 4x5 and 5x7 sheets. It's also helpful rotate the containers: One time a particular tray might get used for fixer - the next time for developer, rinse, whatever. They don't get stained at all that way: no problems with PhotoFlo or any other residue.
Last edited by Ken Lee; 5-Sep-2018 at 16:50.
Ken,
The instructions at http://www.pyrocat-hd.com/html/mixing.html#divided you referred to are missing dev times for A and B.
Ron
"The instructions at http://www.pyrocat-hd.com/html/mixing.html#divided you referred to are missing dev times for A and B."
Here is what it says - with emphasis on the times. Are you referring to something else ?
1. Water bath for five minutes.
2. Six minutes in Part A, with two inversions at the beginning, and two inversions at the 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 points of development.
3. Pour our Solution A and pour in Solution B. No rinse between. Five minutes in Solution B.
Negatives must be fully immersed in Solution B and agitated vigorously for at least one full minute. Failure to do so, can result in uneven development. Two or three inversions at the 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 points of development.
4. Pour out B, pour in water and leave for five minutes.
Sandy, I see that you do not talk about using Solution A as a stain after fixing. I have seen a lot of discussion about this but never a clear explanation of "To stain or not stain?".
Steve
Nothing beats a great piece of glass!
I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.
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