Page 1 of 9 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 87

Thread: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

  1. #1
    Wayne venchka's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,883

    Cool Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    ...for the technically challenged.

    Sandy, Ken, etc.,

    I think that I have read all of the threads on the subject. Would it be possible to state the procedure for using and relative merits of both developers in a divided, two bath scenario?
    I am beating my head against a wall fighting summer heat here in Houston. I love Xtol 1:3, but the temperature variations between summer and winter are killing me. I want simple. Temperature independant. One soup fits all of my eclectic hodge podge of emulsions and formats.
    My hardware setup is a Jobo 3010 Expert drum and 2553 tank and reels. These rotate in a single direction on either a Beseler or Uniroller motor base at 30-32 rpm. Ambient summer room temperture is 78F to 80F. Tap water is close 85F. I prewash in tap water.
    Please advise a starting point for the 2 bath method and which developer is correct for my current method. I am not a high volume user so long stock solution shelf life is important. Example: It took me 13 1/2 months to use up my last 5 liter batch of Xtol.
    Dilution, prewash or not, wetting agent or not, time in each solution, type of fixer, etc. would help me a lot. Subject to my own testing of course.
    Thanks for all of your help, past and future. I wouldn't be where I am today (still slightly dazed and a little confused) without your help.
    Wayne
    Deep in the darkest heart of the East Texas rainforest.

    Wayne's Blog

    FlickrMyBookFaceTwitSpace

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Hong Kong
    Posts
    109

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Is this procedure can help to hanlde the high temp.? A lot of places in the world has this summer of 25c to 35c (77-95f or higher even in LA just recently). What is the limit of temp?

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    5,151

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Quote Originally Posted by venchka View Post
    ...for the technically challenged.

    Sandy, Ken, etc.,

    I think that I have read all of the threads on the subject. Would it be possible to state the procedure for using and relative merits of both developers in a divided, two bath scenario?
    I am beating my head against a wall fighting summer heat here in Houston. I love Xtol 1:3, but the temperature variations between summer and winter are killing me. I want simple. Temperature independant. One soup fits all of my eclectic hodge podge of emulsions and formats..
    To address your questions.

    1. If you compare Xtol 1:3 with two-bath pyrocat this is what you would find, IMO. Grain is slightly finer with Xtol, film speed is slightly greater with Xtol, and sharpness is higher with two-bath Pyrocat.

    2. Temperature control is less important with two-bath Pyrocat than with Xtol. Film will absorb more of the reducer at 85 F than at 75 F, and this will increase contrast slightly. But the mechanism of development still limits the development of highlight density.

    3. I personally use two bath development with roll film that I expose when traveling. This allows me to expose film in a variety of subject brightness conditions and not have to worry about how long to develop the film. The other thing is that this method produces very high sharpness.

    4. For development in Jobo with constant rotation I would recommend the following protocol.

    a. Use a 1:15 or 1:20 dilution of Pyrocat Stock A and Stock B for most films. Add a few grams of PhotoFlo to the solution.
    b. Pre-soak the film for two or three minutes in water at 75 F.
    c. Develop for five minutes in working Solution A, at 75 F. Then drain the film for 15 seconds.
    d. Develop for five minutes in working Solution B, at 75 F.
    e. Use a 1/2 strength acetic acid stop bath for 10 seconds.
    f. Fix in any standard fixer. I use an alkaline fixer (TF-3) but the use of a slightly acidic fixer is ok.
    f. Wash the film for 10-15 minutes, drain and dry.

    Bear in mind that I develop film for scanning, not for printing in the wet darkroom. This means I place more importance on limiting highlight contrast than on developing film to a given CI to match a certain paper or process.

    Hope this information is useful.

    Sandy King
    http://www.sandykingphotography.com/
    For discussion and information about carbon transfer please visit the carbon group at Yahoo.
    https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...nTransfer/info

  4. #4
    Joe Mace
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Dover, NH
    Posts
    26

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Quick question: Why 75F for 2-bath Pyrocat, as opposed to the 68F that I use for 'standard' Pyrocat rotary development?

    I really want to give 2-bath Pyrocat a try, but am going to be challenged trying to maintain 75 F solutions in my plumbing-less basement darkroom up here in NH.

    To use lower development temps, is it is simple as extending the time the film develops in both Solutions A and B? If so, I'm willing to experiment a bit to get the right times for 68 F. I use Pyrocat-MC.

    Joe

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    5,151

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Quote Originally Posted by anotherJoe View Post
    Quick question: Why 75F for 2-bath Pyrocat, as opposed to the 68F that I use for 'standard' Pyrocat rotary development?

    I really want to give 2-bath Pyrocat a try, but am going to be challenged trying to maintain 75 F solutions in my plumbing-less basement darkroom up here in NH.

    To use lower development temps, is it is simple as extending the time the film develops in both Solutions A and B? If so, I'm willing to experiment a bit to get the right times for 68 F. I use Pyrocat-MC.

    Joe
    The warmer the solution the more the gelatin can swell. The more the gelatin swells the more the more reducer can be absorbed. Yes, this is time dependent so the film might absorb as much reducer in ten minutes at 70 F as at 80 F in five minutes.

    You might find that 70 F at five minutes will give you the right amount of contrast, but if it does not either extend development time or increase the temperature of the solution. Increasing the strength of the dilution from 1:15 or 1:20 to 1:10 will also result in more reducer being absorbed, assuming you maintain the same time and temperature.

    Sandy
    http://www.sandykingphotography.com/
    For discussion and information about carbon transfer please visit the carbon group at Yahoo.
    https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...nTransfer/info

  6. #6
    Joe Mace
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Dover, NH
    Posts
    26

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Your explanation makes perfect sense!

    Gracias.

    Joe

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Hong Kong
    Posts
    109

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    A bit worry about the amount of photo flo in job drum. Is that ok? I was kept on being told, in this forum in fact, that it would affect the reel and in fact the drum.

    If that is ok, how much as I am not sure the gram part. Also, is that go to solution A and by the way why?

    Thanks in advance for any further advice.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    5,151

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Quote Originally Posted by dng88 View Post
    A bit worry about the amount of photo flo in job drum. Is that ok? I was kept on being told, in this forum in fact, that it would affect the reel and in fact the drum.

    If that is ok, how much as I am not sure the gram part. Also, is that go to solution A and by the way why?

    Thanks in advance for any further advice.
    Someone else will have to address the issue of Photoflo affecting the reel.

    However, the reason for the Photoflo is that development of the film is almost instantaneous in Solution B. If the film does not drain evenly after removing it from Solution A you may get uneven development marks. Adding a few drops of PhotoFlo will optimize draining flow, and minimize or eliminate the risk of uneven development marks.

    Sandy King
    http://www.sandykingphotography.com/
    For discussion and information about carbon transfer please visit the carbon group at Yahoo.
    https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...nTransfer/info

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Hong Kong
    Posts
    109

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Thanks. May I assume to add to both solution A and B for the few drop of photoFlo?

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    5,151

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Quote Originally Posted by dng88 View Post
    Thanks. May I assume to add to both solution A and B for the few drop of photoFlo?
    There is no need to add Photoflo to Solution B.

    Sandy
    http://www.sandykingphotography.com/
    For discussion and information about carbon transfer please visit the carbon group at Yahoo.
    https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...nTransfer/info

Similar Threads

  1. Anybody using Pyrocat-HD or MC as a Compensating Developer?
    By Jay Decker in forum Darkroom: Film, Processing & Printing
    Replies: 163
    Last Post: 8-Apr-2014, 12:40
  2. Apparatus to aid using Expert Drum with roller base
    By David Karp in forum Darkroom: Film, Processing & Printing
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 3-Jun-2011, 15:19
  3. Two bath print developing
    By RPippin in forum Darkroom: Film, Processing & Printing
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 24-Sep-2010, 05:03
  4. Developing with Tetenal C41 Kit
    By Matei Bejenaru in forum Darkroom: Film, Processing & Printing
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 15-Aug-2009, 06:48
  5. Old Formulas : Toners
    By Paul Fitzgerald in forum Darkroom: Film, Processing & Printing
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 2-Apr-2005, 09:35

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •