First Azo print/ Azo toning

[Jeff Buckels]

That Buffaloe site has every formula I've ever seen and a few I haven't. Anyhow, use Michael Smith's amidol formula is the default, as far as I'm concerned. I got nice neutral-tone results from the Fein Forumla also. Get the chemicals in bulk from Artcraft Chemicals.... Regarding the above comment about Neutol WA: I've used this and really have nothing to complain of. It's certainly easier to work with (just add water, y'know). There's something finer about the amidol, though, I'd still insist. I've gotten into a routine where I kind of work up "proofs" with the cheap and easy Neutol WA, then if I think I have a hot image, I pull out the expensive and harder to use amidol and work up the final "fine" (presumably!) print.... BTW, I think you have to selenium tone w/ Michael's formula, but it works very well. Thicker dilutions than recommended by Michael (the intent of which is to get a neutral tone) give a very nice slightly-purplish brown -- actually, one of the best browns I've seen selenium produce (like, as compared to what it does to other papers). -jb

[Jeff Buckels]

Sorry, the web address of Artcraft is artcraftchemicals.com. I have no relationship to them, by the way, other than happy customer. Their prices are a little better than the well-known competition and the service is better. jb

[David R Munson]

I've found Ansco 130 to be an excellent developer for Azo. This combination, when toned in selenium 1:60 for 4 min gives a nice cooler, though not "cold" image.

[Wayne]

try a phenidone-benzotrizole version of A130 (P130, as I call it). I've had good luck with that giving the most neutral tone possible on warmtone papers, but I havent tried it on Azo. It might give a cold tone even. I'm sure I'd like it more than Neutol WA, which i have tried on Azo but didnt care for all that much