Starting 4x5. Need your recommendation for BW Film and Processing.

[l2oBiN]

I am just starting 4x5. I do not have any experience in developing BW or for that matter which BW Film I should buy. I really need your recommendations/tips and insight into how to setup/start.

Ideally I would like

FILM

BW film that produces the maximum image quality for big (40" +) enlargements (which are going to be done through digital scanning of the negative with subsequent printing)

Since I am new to LF, and film, a bonus would be that the film is tolerant to missing the exposure.

Easy to develop

Also the cheaper the better


PROCESSING

Since I am totally new, I dont know what is the best/easiest processing for a beginner (Obviously it would depend on film to a certain extent?)

I would like to do it in light if possible, but it should be

as cheap as possible, easy to do (For a beginner),

easily setup in a small bathroom and not use toxic substances (because
people will sill use the bathroom).


Thank you in advance.

[Lachlan 717]

Second question answered first: A Jobo rotary processor. Easy, exacting and daylight.

Now for the first: You'll get many answer to this, but I would start by working out what sort of shooting you'll be doing. Are you going to be shooting in controlled light? Portraits? Landscapes?

If landscapes, open/full light? Forest scenes? If you are going to be shooting in dim light, do some research into reciprocity failure. A film that is not affected by this failure until much longer exposures will be a better film to learn exposure on without getting too technical.

But, more than anything, my advice is to buy some cheap film (Efke, Shanghai etc) and shoot a heap of shots! You're going to stuff many shots to begin with, so see the first few days/weeks/months/years as your critical learning stage. Don't expect good results (even though you might get some!). Expect massive failures. But use these to learn.

All the best with your shooting, and keep asking questions.

[Brian C. Miller]

If you just want something to start with, I have a Yankee tank that is gathering dust in the back of my cupboard. It is a great thing to use to get started, but due to its design it produces uneven development. You have to load it in the dark (changing bag is OK) and after that you can use it in normal room light.

[l2oBiN]

Planing to shoot landscapes and cityscapes during day, twighlight and potentially night.

A jobo rotary processor? Is it cheap? Sounds expensive...

In terms of film, the fomapan 100 came to mind...it's relatively cheap at least... Other recommendations?

Second question answered first: A Jobo rotary processor. Easy, exacting and daylight.

Now for the first: You'll get many answer to this, but I would start by working out what sort of shooting you'll be doing. Are you going to be shooting in controlled light? Portraits? Landscapes?

If landscapes, open/full light? Forest scenes? If you are going to be shooting in dim light, do some research into reciprocity failure. A film that is not affected by this failure until much longer exposures will be a better film to learn exposure on without getting too technical.

But, more than anything, my advice is to buy some cheap film (Efke, Shanghai etc) and shoot a heap of shots! You're going to stuff many shots to begin with, so see the first few days/weeks/months/years as your critical learning stage. Don't expect good results (even though you might get some!). Expect massive failures. But use these to learn.

All the best with your shooting, and keep asking questions.

[l2oBiN]

If you just want something to start with, I have a Yankee tank that is gathering dust in the back of my cupboard. It is a great thing to use to get started, but due to its design it produces uneven development. You have to load it in the dark (changing bag is OK) and after that you can use it in normal room light.

A Yankee tank?? Well if it produces uneven development I don't feel it would be usefull whther I am starting or not...but thank you for the offer.

[Mark Stahlke]

Ilford FP4+ developed in Ilford DD-X using a CombiPlan daylight developing tank.

[DanK]

I'll second the FP4+ - great film - somewhat tolerant - and fine grain...fine for good size enlargements....


Developers - I'd recommend two....

D76 - Tried and True - Inexpensive - High Quality - but you'll have to mix a stock solution and dilute when needed....

Rodinal - also Tried and True - Reasonable pricing - High Quality - straight from bottle to dilution when needed - usually minimal 1:50 to 1:100

Processing - Keep it simple - Bathtub holds trays and tanks - not daylight - but upgrade as you deem necessary...start with small trays, one sheet at a time....IMO

For the basics, I'd also look for liquid fixer and stop bath that you can dilute straight from the bottle....

My 2 cents....

Thanks,
Dan

[ki6mf]

Gem Singer who hangs out here came up with the following on how to develop. This is a good way to get the optimum out of what ever film and developer you choose. It implies use of a spot meter. Film and developer are personal preferences! This is a good methodology to figure out what is optimum for you.
Zone System in a Nut shell from Large Format Photography post :
http://www.largeformatphotography.in...ad.php?t=56334
Aim the one degree spot at the darkest area in the scene where you still want to see some detail. Close down two stops. You have just placed the shadow area in Zone III.
That's usually the proper exposure for the scene.
Now, aim the spot at the brightest area in the scene. If it's a five stop range between the darkest and brightest reading, use normal development.
Less than five, increase development
More than five, decrease development.
(This controls highlight development)

No need to take a whole series of meter readings and average them. That's defeating the purpose. Make certain that you have given enough exposure to get some detail in the shadows. Then, develop for the highlights.
That's the Zone System in a nut shell.
This is a web site that will take you step by step through testing a film and developer combination:
http://www.jerryo.com/teaching.htm

I recommend either starting with HP5 or TriX and cut your film speed in half to start. Pick and use one and one only film & developer combination to start. Later when you have the work flow down experiment with other film developer combination's. The fine tuning of this systems is usually adjusting film speed. I shoot HP5 at ISO 300 on one spot meter and ISO 200 on another spot meter! You need to calibrate film and development to your meter!
Guaranteed way to fail is to switch film and or developer mid way through your tests and calibrations!
I would recommend a diluted developer with longer development times. My personal is HP 5 and d76 diluted 1 part developer to 2 parts water each stop difference equal to 2 minutes this lets me cut development time, keep highlights from blowing out and still allows for shadows to have enough time to develop. Full strength developer lets you cut development times but at the same time prevent your shadow areas from getting enough development time. This is important because when the sun is shining you are almost always beyond the tonal range of your scene and longer development times with weaker solutions allow the shadows to develop without blowing out the highlights.
One last thing write everything about your test procedures down and keep them in a journal till you are comfortable and happy with your results.

[Pawlowski6132]

Don't try to skimp on materials. There's no point. It makes sense to try to save money on equipment but, not on film. Just get the good stuff. It's NOT that much more than the "cheap'" stuff and it's not a lot of money at all especially since it's the MOST important thing in this whole process. Stop it.

[Kermit Burroughs]

Funny, I've been searching and searching here trying to decide if I should try something new for an upcoming trip. I have always used Tri-x/HC-110. I'm considering trying tmax. I may get a small box of something else to play with.

Anyway, based on my searches, you're going to come up with every combination imaginable, and they all work for the person that suggests them. YMMV.