Really, really old exposed Plus-X..

[thart2009]

A photo friend just received a Folmer & Schwing Autograflex that takes 3 1/4 x 4 1/4 sheet film. It is loaded with a film pack. She tells me the tabs sticking out of the film pack indicate Plus-X. So, the film could be from back as far as 1940 or so.

It appears 7 of 12 sheets have been exposed. So... umm, any chance I can get a usable image out of these for her?? If so, any recommendations on developers? My first thought was Rodinal 1-100 stand for an hour ('cuz that's what I have). Other thoughts are Acufine or HC110. Comments or suggestions?? Thanks.. Tom

[Mark Woods]

Develop by inspection. You'll be surprised. Film is incredibly resilient.

[sully75]

I developed a roll of "Verichrome Pan 620" that came out of some family members camera recently in Diafine 3+3 (maybe 4+4) because it's what I had and I figured it was the most forgiving thing available. I think the pictures came out good. I think they were done with a Brownie or something similar, so I think the camera screwed the pictures up as much as the lag in development.



So, sample size of one, Diafine might be a good choice. It's pretty amazing to think about those pictures just waiting there to be developed. My mom was crying, she loved her dad and doesn't have many pictures of him.

[Mark Woods]

I had a roll of color film developed that had been in the camera for over 35 years and the images were fine -- not great, but fine. Film is amazing. During the same time I'm not sure how many digital formats came and went. Sigh..............

[Brian C. Miller]

Whatever you do, just use a straight developer. There is an additive which is supposed to reduce fog, but it always reduces everything and leaves the film blank. An image with fog is better than no image at all.

[Wade D]

Whatever you do, just use a straight developer. There is an additive which is supposed to reduce fog, but it always reduces everything and leaves the film blank. An image with fog is better than no image at all.

I agree. Benzotriazole or potassium bromide restrainers may make the developer too weak.
Even if there is fog it can be printed through if not too terrible. Try one sheet first and see how it looks. Then you can judge what is needed for the other sheets.

[Robert Hughes]

I remember once developing some old DuPont 16mm movie film from a WW2-era gun camera. The entire roll was completely fogged (showing some building or other I think), except for ONE frame, which was completely transparent. I suspect it may have been an atomic bomb test camera that was forgotten about.