BW reversal process

[IanG]

Helen, I found a 1928 suggestion quite recently for even finer grain which used a 2nd developer of Pyrogallol & Pyrocatechin to give a stained image which is then bleached to remove silver leaving only the stain. It was recommended for Cine film.

Ian

[Lachlan 717]

Helen,

Given your comment on 2nd Dev't, would Ortho be better than Pan insomuch as you could red safelight it?

[Helen Bach]

Ian, Lachlan, Hi.

Ian, interesting. It's like a one-layer E-6? Not being concerned about the final image colour, or whether it is silver or dye, does open up possibilities. Back in the day I did try DiXactol once as a second dev, but did not then bleach the silver. So many possibilities, so little time.

Lachlan, I think that the choice of ortho or pan should be mainly based on the spectral response you require for the image. Second development is usually to finality (or very close) and I've never tried alternatives to developing to finality in any methodical fashion. For both personal and commercial work I shoot LF colour almost exclusively now (E-6 for commercial, C-41 for personal) therefore, no matter how interested I am in the reversal process, my experience is not current and I think that others are more able to answer.

Best,
Helen

[Brian Ellis]

I've used the TMax kit a couple times when submitting b&w slides for exhibits. It worked well but I'd suggest waiting to use it until you have a large number of negatives to do. The working solutions from the kit are pretty large as I recall. I had only a few negatives for submission so most of the chemicals ended up going to waste.

[bluenote]

Well, I have just received the chemistry from Photographers formulary ( reversal kit for T max ) and as I can see in instructions there is a big fun for me ahead .
Do you guys have any experiences with RE- EXPOSING the film with bulb 150W ?
This is what I have to do and I really do not know how to do that ...
thank you ,

[IanG]

The re-exposure depends on the way you're processing. In a Paterson type reel the film can be left in the reel during re-exposure, hold the reel about 50cm from the lamp, rotating so the film gets fully exposed, usually about 2 minutes. You must be careful not to splash the bulb with water droplets.

With care the film can be taken from the reel and exposed by passing in front pf the bulb again about 50cm from the bulb. If 5x4 in a Jobo then again expose with the film in the spirals.

What you don't want is gross over exposure which can happen with direct sunlight.

Ian

[bluenote]

The re-exposure depends on the way you're processing. In a Paterson type reel the film can be left in the reel during re-exposure, hold the reel about 50cm from the lamp, rotating so the film gets fully exposed, usually about 2 minutes. You must be careful not to splash the bulb with water droplets.

With care the film can be taken from the reel and exposed by passing in front pf the bulb again about 50cm from the bulb. If 5x4 in a Jobo then again expose with the film in the spirals.

What you don't want is gross over exposure which can happen with direct sunlight.

Ian

Thanks Ian,


am I working in room light with the bulb ? Bathroom shade for example ?

[IanG]

Room light's fine, diffuse daylight's fine, just no direct sunlight.

Ian

[bluenote]

Room light's fine, diffuse daylight's fine, just no direct sunlight.

Ian

Do you have any of your bw slides scanned ? Can you post one ?
Has the re-exposition fatal effect on the results? I mean, I would not moving the bulb in front of the film call " exact process.

[IanG]

I don't have any online, 95% of my more recent B&W slides where copies of my exhibition prints for presentation in slide form to Galleries etc, usually 6x7's.

The re-exposure is not that critical as long as there's sufficient, the gross over exposure is not remotely close to a few minutes exposure to a 150w bulb, and is more likely to happen with sunlight or light with a high blue/UV content which no normal tungtsen bulbs give.

Ian