WTM (Want To Make): Eastman/Kodak 2D Tripod Block in 3D! Pictures anyone?

**misterclicky** · 16-Jun-2010, 02:42

G'day, having just picked up a 2D with extension rails but no block I am interested in making one as I believe they're rarer that Alfred Stieglitz's teeth on the second hand circuit. I've managed to scrounge two images, one from these forums and another from Ebuy but would love for anyone to be able to post up close in focus ones if they have the time.

From the looks if it to make one with the original single tensioning screw and arm largely relies on being able to find something prefabricated and/or firing up the welder. Putting two tensioning screws, one either side may be more achievable.

So would love to see anyone's homemade alternative and/or pictures of the real deal - 3D preferred!

cheers

CJ

Top down

Side

**erie patsellis** · 16-Jun-2010, 07:19

Not all that bad, I've built a few similar ones, start with a 1/4" rod sitting in a dado, drill a 1/16" or 3/32" hole through the rod and into the wood, remove the rod, enlarge the hole in the wood slightly (as needed to allow some side to side movement) and tap in a roll or solid pin, it won't rotate and you can tighten it easily.

**IanG** · 16-Jun-2010, 12:11

The block is virtually the same as the one for my 10x8 Agfa Ansco Commercial View, mines longer & has 2 tripod mounts..

I will be making a new one next time I'm in the UK for my second 10x8 Agfa Ansco which has no block. The wooden part is easy, it's a case of getting the brass side rails cut & bent, the tightening rod can be made from commercially available parts.

Ian

**misterclicky** · 16-Jun-2010, 17:03

Thanks erie, I'll have to do for a wander through the hardware store and see what I can source, haven't made anything like this before.

Oddly making the side rails is easier for me at least as I have access to a metal press, two simple end bends should do it, the trick I'd imagine is doing them at the right length but that looks OK from the pics I have. If you've time Ian post a pic once you've made one, that'd be helpful, particularly of what you used for the tightening rod.

cheers

CJ

**Jim C.** · 16-Jun-2010, 18:26

The sliding block is probably the easiest thing to replicate, no welding required.
If you have access to bending brake all the better otherwise you could use brass angle stock.
Just to be anal the tensioning rod is 3/16" dia. with a 10-32 thread for the knob end, the other end is peened with a washer.

Do these pictures help ? They're of my Kodak 2D 8X10 sliding block.

**IanG** · 16-Jun-2010, 23:44

The Agfa Ansco block is made up exactly the same way as Jim's 2D, same tensioning rod, pin to stop it turning during tightening etc.

It may be 6 months before I'm back in the UK and make mine, everything is in Jim's photos but note the inward curve on the edges of the block to allow tightening.

There were specialist companies making all the brass fittings which is why many cameras have similar hardware.

Currently I'm restoring a Quarter plate camera and hacve come across two UK companies (1890's) who sold everything needed to build a wide variety of wooden camera, this included all the brass fittings as well as woodwork, back frames, lens & bellows panels etc. There would have been US equivalents most likely in Rochester.

Ian

**Jim C.** · 17-Jun-2010, 06:54

It's interesting to note that the blocks tongue and groove ends on one of my
Kodak 2Ds didn't seem to be glued, it's 99% likely that it was OEM and not
cobbled together, where as the second one purchased from a forum member
was glued, the unglued one definitely worked better on both my 2Ds.

Anyone know if the tongue and groove ends were originally glued or left loose ?

**IanG** · 17-Jun-2010, 08:20

The Agfa Ansco block I have is definitely glued, I assumed the glue had separated on yours

Ian

**Mark Sawyer** · 17-Jun-2010, 11:46

I just pulled mine off, unscrewed one side, and checked it. Both sides glued, presumedly by the factory.

I'd offer this though towards making a replacement block: I've considered making one the length of the front rail rather than the length of the short bed under the camera. This would be long enough to traverse the whole bed under the camera and well into the front bed when slid into place. Even more importantly, it could traverse the bed and well into both the front and rear rails when the rear extension is in use. This longer slider block would greatly increse the rigidity of the rail system, which in my 30+ years of experience using mine, is the only shortcoming of the 2D.

(I use a full-size Ries tripod with my 2D, which is substantial enough that I don't worry about balance, but I always slide the block to cover the joint where the front rail meets the bed to add rigidity. That it also hel[ps the balance is just a happy coincidence.)