May Need Help

[Robert Hughes]

The name for the pinhole camera group f295.org is a takeoff on that concept, as pinhole cameras have essentially infinite depth of field.

[John Powers]

Bob,

Monty mentioned rules from fabric stores. You can also get adhesive backed metal or mylar rules from Reid Supply Company www.reidsupply.com. I picked metric just for more increments. Dick Phillips was kind enough to screw these to either side of my 8x10 and 7x17.

You were generous to compliment me on going back to take eighteen college courses in photography in my retirement. Having seen you in your shop and at Bill’s, I know you to be a relaxed and patient man. The major benefit of those courses is a critique of ten new prints every two weeks. Practice, make mistakes, learn, practice, get feed back, make new mistakes, practice, burn film. Shoot B&W when you are learning. It is cheaper.

Isn’t Michael Smith offering a workshop soon?

John

[bob carnie]

John I will look into Reid Supply , thanks.

If I go back to school I think it will be a cooking school or better yet an english major course so that after four years, I will be able to debate with the esteemed Mr McCutchen and not be at a disadvantage. Actually it may take more than four years.

How is that system for lugging around your big camera? I was very tempted by Richard K thread about the big pano camera and was trying to get my head around, how to lug that thing around if I was able to purchase it.

I am not sure what M Smith is up too, I have not seen them since the first APUG conference.

Bob,

Monty mentioned rules from fabric stores. You can also get adhesive backed metal or mylar rules from Reid Supply Company www.reidsupply.com. I picked metric just for more increments. Dick Phillips was kind enough to screw these to either side of my 8x10 and 7x17.

You were generous to compliment me on going back to take eighteen college courses in photography in my retirement. Having seen you in your shop and at Bill’s, I know you to be a relaxed and patient man. The major benefit of those courses is a critique of ten new prints every two weeks. Practice, make mistakes, learn, practice, get feed back, make new mistakes, practice, burn film. Shoot B&W when you are learning. It is cheaper.

Isn’t Michael Smith offering a workshop soon?

John

[John Powers]

Bob,

”How is that system for lugging around your big camera?” It is great and would work well at least for his 8x20 which unfortunately is sold. The 14x17 might be too top heavy for the balance of this rig. A variation might be needed.

This is the model I use. http://babyjogger.com/perf_jogger_lp.aspx
A canvas bag of six 7x17 film holders is bungied to the bottom rail. It is a good place to carry them, and it also lowers the center of gravity of the camera-tripod. A 12x12 inch cooler bag of lenses, meter, loop, dark cloth sit in the baby’s seat. Throw away the hood. The camera mounted on a big Ries sits above the bag with the spikes through the foot pad and the head bungied to the shock absorbers. Works for me on trails and woods. It won’t do stairs or cliffs, but at 70 neither do I.

”I am not sure what M Smith is up too, I have not seen them since the first APUG conference.” The comment was a tease in reference to your expressed feelings at that time. There is no doubt in my mind that you will master the view camera. However it will take even your sharp mind more than two tries.

John

[bob carnie]

Thanks John

Going to give it a try again this weekend, with the new Ektar 100, lots of fun, and actually after years of Mamiya 7, Hasselblad, Fuji 6x9 and lately Pentax 6x7, the cambo rail camera is more to the way I like working, I just hate the setup envolved but I think over time it will be a piece of cake.


BTW Folks

I really appreciate all the help , the trees is a location that is very easy for me to go back too and reshoot, I plan to focus with the methods listed, I will stay with the same lens and close down to f45 its min apeture, going back end of month and if raining should be able to duplicate lighting conditions as there is a magnificent canopy supplied by these wonderful trees.
Wondering this, is there a 150mm lens that would have a smaller apeture that I should be considering, as I do like the normal view??
I will post my new versions after my next attempt for more critique.

thanks
Bob

Bob,

”How is that system for lugging around your big camera?” It is great and would work well at least for his 8x20 which unfortunately is sold. The 14x17 might be too top heavy for the balance of this rig. A variation might be needed.

This is the model I use. http://babyjogger.com/perf_jogger_lp.aspx
A canvas bag of six 7x17 film holders is bungied to the bottom rail. It is a good place to carry them, and it also lowers the center of gravity of the camera-tripod. A 12x12 inch cooler bag of lenses, meter, loop, dark cloth sit in the baby’s seat. Throw away the hood. The camera mounted on a big Ries sits above the bag with the spikes through the foot pad and the head bungied to the shock absorbers. Works for me on trails and woods. It won’t do stairs or cliffs, but at 70 neither do I.

”I am not sure what M Smith is up too, I have not seen them since the first APUG conference.” The comment was a tease in reference to your expressed feelings at that time. There is no doubt in my mind that you will master the view camera. However it will take even your sharp mind more than two tries.

John

[ki6mf]

I would get a Dept of Field Table for the focal length of your lens. Make sure it covers all your F stops. Then use that to estimate the distance you need to focus to get the coverage your want. A problem with Scheimpflug is that tall fore ground objects are not in focus as plane of focus is tilted and tall objects stick up through the plane of focus. Normal DOF : | | -|| With Scheimpflug : | \ -\|

[bob carnie]

Bumping a old thread.

So I am very happy with the 4x5 and 8x10 negatives I am producing. Please don't laugh.

I am working on a project that requires long bellows to get almost 1:1 size on film.
The size of objects are getting smaller and I need to figure out how to fill the frame on 4x5 and 8x10.

I am using a Cambo with a 210 lens for 4x5
I am using a Agfa Ansco on a Century semi stand 1 with a Voigtlander Braunscheig Helliar 1:4,5 f 48cm Lens for the 8x10 work.

To date the objects I am using fit nicely into the capabilitys of the optics I have.
How do I photograph smaller objects , about 1 inch in size , and place them to about 4inches on 4x5 or 8 inches on the old 8x10 camera.
Dino the Dinasor is about 4 inches tall and is pretty much maxing out my current setup. I have a wonderful collection of smaller objects and I am in trouble as I want the object to fill the frame in 4x5 and 8x10.

I really do not want to change gear as I like the equipment I am using , so how do I magnify objects... Kind of like the difficulty one has when reducing images on a enlarger.

Remember folks, I am new to large format cameras, so be gentle with your comments, working with these cameras are fun and I hope its only a matter of getting a couple of different lenses????

[erie patsellis]

Bob, the easiest way is with a shorter f.l. lens. If you're using strobes, consider borrowing some of your enlarging lenses.

[rdenney]

Remember folks, I am new to large format cameras, so be gentle with your comments, working with these cameras are fun and I hope its only a matter of getting a couple of different lenses????

Just use a shorter lens. 210 is pretty long for 4x5, and will require about 16" of bellows draw at 1:1. My quick calculation suggests that an 80mm lens will provide the 4:1 you are seeking with the same 16" of bellows draw. The subject will be 4" from the lens, rather than 16" from the lens as with 1:1, so you'll need to make sure the camera does not shade the subject.

Given that most lenses are optimized for 1:10 or more, I would mount the lens backwards in the shutter--rear cell in the front and front cell in the rear--to turn that optimization around. That will get it a lot closer to the 4:1 situation you are throwing at it, though you may undermine the accuracy of the aperture a touch, and you may have to check focus after stopping down.

(Most enlarger lenses are optimized for 1:2 through 1:10, depending on focal length. They benefit from being reversed, too.)

You need two additional stops for 1:1. At 4:1, you'll need nearly 5 additional stops. Even using a hat as a shutter is no big deal.

Rick "who has reversed a lot of lenses for macro but never by swapping cells in a LF shutter" Denney

[bob carnie]

I am using hot lights, my exposure is 2 seconds f22 at this point.

Bob, the easiest way is with a shorter f.l. lens. If you're using strobes, consider borrowing some of your enlarging lenses.