1. ## Re: Divided Procat HD

Sandy
I ran another test with the same results. I doubled the amount of solution A and B. Everything else remained the same, time, dilution, etc.
I did not add any wetting agent as I would not know if it was wetting agent or the
doubling of the amount of A & B if it worked. Tomorrow unless you have any other
suggestions I will do the same and add some wetting agent. I really want this to work
so I will continue until I get it.

Walter

2. ## Re: Divided Procat HD

I must be missing something here (wouldn't be the first time).

What's the benefit of the divided development? As opposed to mixing sol'ns A and B together then developing in one step...

I'm curious because Pyrocat HD and TMY in a Jobo is my all-around favorite combo.

I mix at 2+2+100 and dev at 70 deg F for around 8 minutes for normal contrast. Continous rotation in a Jobo using the reels at speed "P". I never see uneven development in skies.

Scott

4. ## Re: Divided Procat HD

What's the benefit of the divided development?

Divided Developer formulas have been around for a long time.

For a more extensive discussion, with sample photos, look here.

5. ## Re: Divided Procat HD

Originally Posted by walterb
Sandy
I ran another test with the same results. I doubled the amount of solution A and B. Everything else remained the same, time, dilution, etc.
I did not add any wetting agent as I would not know if it was wetting agent or the
doubling of the amount of A & B if it worked. Tomorrow unless you have any other
suggestions I will do the same and add some wetting agent. I really want this to work
so I will continue until I get it.

Walter
Wow, you sure have a lot of uneven development on this test. To be sure, doubling the amount of A & B did not solve the problem at all.

I look forward to results of your test with the wetting agent.

Sandy

6. ## Re: Divided Procat HD

Scott,

I think you raise an important point. The benefits should always be weighed against the risks. If the quality of the resulting negative is all that matters (I'm not suggesting it is), I think a negative developed in divided Pyrocat would be very nearly indistinguishable from a negative developed in Pyrocat as a single bath developer, if both negatives are developed to the same contrast. Again if the resulting negative was the only consideration, it might be hard to justify the use of divided Pyrocat, given the very subtle differences in defect-free negatives, and the risk of defects with the divided developer. Of course, there are benefits to 2-bath development that are not directly related to negative quality; the option to develop films of different types and speeds together, the non-necessity of tight time or temperature control (2-bath development allows one to process without either a thermometer or a timer, if necessary), and in the cases of other types of 2-bath developers, much increased economy.

This thread has me wondering if I've overlooked defects in my own negatives developed in my 2-bath developer, as I can't think of any good reason why I shouldn't be seeing the same problems Ken and Walter are seeing. I'll give them a good looking over when I get home.

7. ## Re: Divided Procat HD

I found a raw, unedited scan of a 2-bath negative with lots of sky area. Aside from some dust and noise, I don't see any streaking or blotching.

8. ## Re: Divided Procat HD

Shoot some sheets of blank sky or a blank evenly lit target so you can clearly see the pattern of streaking. Its not a waste of film if it helps you solve this problem.

I always had problems with the time it took to pour developer into Jobo tanks with the lift and the 2500 series tanks which I assume is what you are using. C-41 went well but some B&W did not. Longer times and more dilution worked better for me.

I also tried filling the tank first then dropping in the film but that won't work for you, since you lack a darkroom.

The best method I found with Jobo 2500 tanks was to use the larger one that took 2 reels, filling it 3/4 full and dunking the one reel of film. I agitated by gently rolling the tank in the sink. You will need a standard cap for the tank to do this. Do not try inversion - all that liquid rushing around will rip the film from the reel.

Have you tried a different dilution of your developer?

What might happen if you used Pyrocat HD mixed but a higher dilution? Might you get some compensation effect as you desire now?

9. ## Re: Divided Procat HD

Originally Posted by Henry Ambrose

Have you tried a different dilution of your developer?

What might happen if you used Pyrocat HD mixed but a higher dilution? Might you get some compensation effect as you desire now?

Weaker dilutions can be used but with any given film will result in less contrast. Of course, if you are developing to scan, which is the main reason this work flow is being promoted, less contrast does not make any difference, within reason. So a 1:20 dilution, or even weaker, may be used in place of 1:10. In fact, for some high contrast films, Efke 25, Rollei Pan 25, etc. a 1:15 or 1:20 dilution would be recommended as the standard since 1:10 might give too much contast.

The basic rule is that higher dilutions result in less contrast, but each film is different so there is no one magical dilution.

I have developed over a hundred sheets of 5X7 film and at least two hundred rolls of 120 film with divided Pyrocat-HD and have not seen any mottling or streaking once I got the technique down. I develop 5X7" film one sheet at a time in an 8X10 Beseler drum, on a motor base. The mechanism of development is such that the developer pretty much comes into contact with the film evenly and immediately. After development in Solution A, drain for 15 seconds, then begin Solution B. The basic procedure is.

Step One -- Five minute presoak in plain water. My water source if quite pure and I don't use distilled.
Step Two -- Five minutes in Solution A, then drain for 15 seconds.
Step Three -- Five minutes in Solution B, then drain for 15 seconds.
Step Four -- Wash for twenty minutes with distilled water.
Note that with rotary agitation I use a weaker dilution than with intermittent agitation, so instead of 1:10 which would be my standard for development of Acros in tanks on spiral reels with intermittent agitation I use 1:20.

With 120 film my procedure is as follows. Note again that the film comes into contact with both Solution A and Solution B immediately and completely.
Step One -- Five minute presoak.
Step Two -- Five minutes in Solution A. Drop the reels with the film loaded into the tank which has been filled in advance. Agitate vigorously for one full minute, then agitate vigorously for fifteen seconds every minute thereafter. Remove reels and drain.
Step Three -- Drop the film into a tank containing Solution B. Agitate vigorously for one full minute, then agitate vigorously for fifteen seconds every minute thereafter. Remove reels and drain.
Step Four -- Wash film for twenty minutes.

Please note that I have never advocated shuffle agitation with sheet film, or any other type of development that does not allow for the film to be immersed completely and all at once in the solutions.

Sandy King

10. ## Re: Divided Procat HD

If one were using BTZS style tubes for divided Pyrocat would it still be possible to use a small quantity of developer as usual (50ml for me) or would more be required to minimise problems. If I can continue to use a small quantity, that would make it an economical aproach for me. My best negatives over all, come from BTZS style tubes, but minimal agitation has worked well too. I will give it a try anyway.

David

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