Dip and Dunk vs Inversion

[David de Gruyl]

In an effort to process more than two 8x10 negatives at once, I am transitioning to hangers / tanks. I have timing worked out for most of my chemicals and film combinations in an inversion tank environment.

So: Is there any real difference that I should know about when processing in tanks (and removing the film to agitate) when compared to inversion?

To clear up any confusion, I am currently using the HP combiplan - and will continue to for small batches of 4x5 - and BZTS tubes. The tubes I use by pouring chemistry into them to fill, and up-ending them on the counter. Mostly I do this to limit agitation, and reduce contrast. I was never satisfied with continuous agitation, but I am a Rodinal junkie.

[Gem Singer]

Hi David,

One suggestion I can offer for agitating film on hangers in the developer in deep tanks:

At each agitation, lift the hanger upward and tilt it forward (toward you) 45 degrees, or more. Slide the hanger back into the tank and lift it again. This time, tilt it backwards (away from you). Then back into the tank until the next agitation period.

This way, the film is bathed in developer over multiple directions. If you merely lift it straight up and down, you are risking the appearance of surge marks around the holes in the hangers.

Also, use continuous agitation for the first minute in the developer. Then intermittent agitation for the remaining time.

[David de Gruyl]

Thanks, that was my plan.

Do I need to account for the time I use pouring in / out of the small tank? In other words, It takes about 30-45 seconds to fill or drain the HP Combiplan. I don't normally worry about this, but converting my numbers, it might be a good idea to add this time (or part of it).

[John NYC]

An aside that I've always wondered about if someone wouldn't mind to enlighten me... why is it called "dip AND dunk" when these are basically synonyms? Why not just "dip processing" or "dunk processing"... or better yet "tank processing"?

[CG]

[QUOTE=John NYC;584700 ... why is it called "dip AND dunk" ... Why not just "dip processing" or "dunk processing"... [/QUOTE]More poetic?

[CG]

...Do I need to account for the time I use pouring in / out of the small tank? ...

Since the agitation will be different, it's best to run a couple of test runs to get a time that works for the way you handle things. It wouldn't hurt to start with the time that has worked for you with the old tank, and then look at your results and adjust as needed.

[bob carnie]

To add to Gem's great advice, I always included a side to side tilt, so agitation in four directions.

Hi David,

One suggestion I can offer for agitating film on hangers in the developer in deep tanks:

At each agitation, lift the hanger upward and tilt it forward (toward you) 45 degrees, or more. Slide the hanger back into the tank and lift it again. This time, tilt it backwards (away from you). Then back into the tank until the next agitation period.

This way, the film is bathed in developer over multiple directions. If you merely lift it straight up and down, you are risking the appearance of surge marks around the holes in the hangers.

Also, use continuous agitation for the first minute in the developer. Then intermittent agitation for the remaining time.

[David de Gruyl]

Bob, that is how I do the inversion pattern for my Combiplan. I think I will go with that, it only seems reasonable.

[Daniel Stone]

try filling the tank BEFORE you put the film in, unless you don't have a darkroom and will be doing the inversion method with the combiplan

a friend of mine has had great luck with doing a Pre-Soak(about 2 min) before the developer, he uses a combiplan and hasn't had any problems with it since starting to use a water bath soaking/agitation

-Dan

[Andrew O'Neill]

At each agitation, lift the hanger upward and tilt it forward (toward you) 45 degrees, or more. Slide the hanger back into the tank and lift it again. This time, tilt it backwards (away from you). Then back into the tank until the next agitation period.

With 8x10 film be sure that the top edges of your tank are smooth, otherwise the film nearest these edges will rub and scratch. I found out the hardway.
8x10 film sags under the pressure of the developer when you move it around. Also, lifting and tilting the film to the right, dropping, and lifting then tilting to the left works well too.