4x5 neg processing in homemade tubes

[KenM]

Brian, regarding the problems you had with either the lids being on too tight (tough to remove) or too loose (developer leaks), this was my solution:

I matched the male and female couplers such that I could screw the two together (heh, that sounds a bit nasty, doesn't it?) all the way, without any effort. This would technically make a poor seal, but that's ok, since that's what your after.

I then found a small rubber O-ring to place on the male coupler. It's this ring that makes the seal, not the actual ABS threads. You can screw these things together practically as tight as you want, and you'll still be able to unscrew them.

As with everything, YMMV. Works for me, however.

Cheers!

-klm.

[Eric Pederson]

I too made homemade black ABS tubes with male and female screw on couplers. After a year (maybe 30-50 unscrewings), the threads alone - - more technically, the end of the threads where they hit the place an o-ring would go it I needed one-- still provide a perfect seal (easy to test with hot water which will try to escape). It takes quite some time to unscrew these ABS couplers though: almost 5 full revolutions. This translates to 15-20 seconds for switching caps, so I try to not have more than two tubes with the same end of development time. (+/-15 seconds in a 7 minute development is less variation than most of my exposure variance). Having made these, I would probably recommend buying the marketed BTZS tubes for 4x5. Two caps and one tube roughly cost me: 3 end caps (3x$2), 2 female threaded couplers (2x$1.50), 1 male threaded coupler ($2), plus small amounts for the tubing and ABS cement. Add to that about 20 minutes labor and shopping time and the savings isn't so great. You might well find a cheaper source however. Plus mine are clearly clumsier, slightly off-balance axially and rotationally, than I imagine the BTZS tubes to be. The BTZS come with a nice tray too.

PS: I follow advice from these pages to back the negatives with a sheet of transparency film to reduce scratching. This guarantees that you will need to get off the anti-halation backing separately, but really protects the film from abrasion.

Number your tubes as they will get out of order sometimes. Also assume that all published development times and formulas are irrelevant. Don't worry too much about agitation, just be slow and not particularly regular. I stop rotating when emptying tubes and just sort of bang at the tubes as they bob once or twice if I can. Fast rotation can cause ill-effects.

[Bontrager_1]

BUMPING THIS THREAD.

Hi folks,

Can some of you provide some dimensions and details on how you built your homemade tubes? I am looking to build my own for 4x5 to process TriX 320 in D-76. Can you give me some specifics on how long to agitate, how regular to spin, etc? The ambient water temperature here in Miami is about 82 F, which is warmer than normal. How do I compensate for this?

Thanks!

[jeroldharter]

I have used 4x5 and 8x10 BTS tubes. I assume you are talking about 4x5.

For low volume work and for someone getting started, keep it simple. Just use the open tubes in a tray like mentioned above or buy/build a slosher tray.

I would use a slosher because there is less fiddling and only one tray for 6 sheets instead of 6 tubes to deal with. Also, if you are doing multiple runs, you need to thoroughly dry the tubes (which is time consuming and tedious) while the slosher requires no additional work. You will use more chemistry than you would with proprietary BTZS tubes but that is relatively inexpensive. Only the developer and stop would be in darkness and you could enjoy watching the film clear in the fixer with a slosher. A slosher is easier to agitate than 6 tubes and your hands need not get wet or exposed to chemicals.

[Brian Ellis]

With the tubes in a water jacket I rotated the tubes constantly, 10 rolls in one direction, 10 rolls in the other, by rubbing my hand lightly across the tops of them. I guess you could work out a system of intermittent agitation but I never liked the idea of the tubes sitting there with developer standing on one part of the film for any length of time.

[DaveAlbano]

Since you bumped an old post I'll raise you an old suggestion.

I have 2 8x10 print drums, each hold 4 4x5 negs and it only get to be a pain when I N+1, N+2 etc. Changing bag for loading holders or drums. I assume if you are in total darkness you can process with trays? I've not done open trays, I've used open tanks with stainless metal holders and they work great for zone processing, but consume a lot of solution. I guess that's why there are many solutions to the same "problem".

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/unicolor/

[RPippin]

I use the BTZS system for 4X5 and 8X10, and they have performed flawlessly for years. I thought about making my own with ABS tubing, I am a master plumber for Gods sake, but nixed the idea and bought the system with no regrets. One of the main reasons is the developer, I use WD2D+, Rollo Pyro, or soup my own Pyro developer. While on the subject of developers, I've found out the hard way that this class of developer will kill skin cells on the tips of your fingers if you get any on them. Wearing gloves is an absolute necessity. Being that the BTZS system is a daylight system, you can have more control while wearing good rubber gloves. I slipped up and got a small amount of developer on my finger tips while doing a dip and dunk with hangers about 9 months ago and my finger tips still haven't healed. They still split and bleed and are sore as hell. I know the cost is a bit high, but the results are worth the cost, let alone the health concerns.

[D. Bryant]

I use the BTZS system for 4X5 and 8X10, and they have performed flawlessly for years. I thought about making my own with ABS tubing, I am a master plumber for Gods sake, but nixed the idea and bought the system with no regrets. One of the main reasons is the developer, I use WD2D+, Rollo Pyro, or soup my own Pyro developer. While on the subject of developers, I've found out the hard way that this class of developer will kill skin cells on the tips of your fingers if you get any on them. Wearing gloves is an absolute necessity. Being that the BTZS system is a daylight system, you can have more control while wearing good rubber gloves. I slipped up and got a small amount of developer on my finger tips while doing a dip and dunk with hangers about 9 months ago and my finger tips still haven't healed. They still split and bleed and are sore as hell. I know the cost is a bit high, but the results are worth the cost, let alone the health concerns.

BTZS tubes rock. They are definitely work the bread, far superior to PVC DIY tubes.

[frednewman]

Hi Douglas Gould

Whether using home-made BTZS tubes or you get the 4x5 BTZS tubes - your best bet is following the directions by Phil Davis. Also I have an instructional video on youtube.com. To find the instructional videos just do a search using the word "viewcamerastore". Please note the video for the 4x5 BTZS tubes is in two parts, because at the time I put the videos up you were limited to a 10 minute video.

I did the video because sometimes it is easier to follow a video then to read instructions. If you need help or have questions please email or call me.

Fred Newman

[h2oman]

I spin the tubes like I think it shows in the video. I have six tubes. Spin the outer sets of two with a sort of pinching motion. When they are about to stop spinning, pinch the middle two to spin them. When they've about stopped, go back to the outer two. I just do that over and over, and I get nice even development.

I'd say decide how you are going to spin them, then do some tests using that spinning method to get your development times.

I am of the belief that any slight variation in my development method has far less effect on the end result than my exposure of the film.