I too have a Rolleiflex 3.5E with a Planar lens, this is my "point and shoot" camera when I want to travel light. The image quality is superb, especially with T-max 100 film.
I too have a Rolleiflex 3.5E with a Planar lens, this is my "point and shoot" camera when I want to travel light. The image quality is superb, especially with T-max 100 film.
Both LF and MF are both affordable. I own both. Actually I own from 16mm to 8x10. But I'm an addict. But I bought a Kowa Six which is an excellent camera that is affordable and an 8x10 which is affordable if not transportable everywhere I go. And 35mm with modern films exposed and processed correctly are superb. and there are 2x3 cameras that offer both portability and affordability. The best of both worlds. Yeah it ain't contact but it is still pretty darn good. Don't sweat the small stuff. Just shoot film. James
I thought 4x5 for a while and settled on a Horseman 980 (should have the next version up=VHR) I have all the movements/lens interchangeability as well as different backs for color/N B&W/+ or - N/and film holders etc. However there is probably no weight advantage as the whole kit with tripod weighs over #25. George Nedleman
I second the previous answer, go for a Fuji 6x9. Good value for money and the big negative you will like. :?)
The Fuji GSW690 is great, at a moderate price compared to XPan and Mamiya 7. Add that little Voigtlander VC meter in the flash shoe and you're all set for handheld shooting. I find that the DOF scale on the GSW690 is one or two stops on the optimistic side, though. The XPan is great too.
So little time, & all them beautiful, cool cameras and formats to play with! Am I a gadget nut? Heck Bruce, you only live once, buy the darn MF. dankowalsky@dankowalsky.com
I second the Fuji 6x9 suggestion - before starting LF, I used a GW690 II exclusi vely for 3 years. The camera is so simple that you can start making really fine pictures at once, and with a bit of practise the results ref. image quality are really outstanding ! On my wall are enlargements up to 60x40cm from the Fuji, next to 70x56cm from LF (both from Velvia transparencies, and of course a tripod was used with the Fu ji too), and I can't see any difference in sharpness or tonality (perspective an d subject control being an entirely different matter.
Compared to LF and many makes of MF gear, the Fuji is a point and shoot toy - I took it with me while mountaineering and skiing in the Alpes w/o problems, and i t's so unobtrusive that you even can bring it to many places (museums, exhibitio ns etc.) where only consumer photo equipment is allowed. Though the shutter of the Fuji is IMHO one of its weaknesses (at least compared to a current Copal) and rather vibration-prone, hand held shooting down to 1/60t h works fine. With a monopod (a really advisable accessory to the Fuji), even 1 /15th becomes manageable.
When I had my first ground glass experience, I was really tempted to sell the Fu ji, but now I think that would have been a huge mistake - for me, it seems like an ideal compliment to an LF camera!
i went from 4x5 to 120 roll film using a camera called the galvin view...jim galvin has a machine shop and made me an adaptor lens board making the use of my 4x5 lenses a snap...his ad is in view camera magazine...the camera is no longer being manufactured but can ocasionally can be found for sale on ebay...it has all the vc movements, is incredibly light weight, uses horseman 6x7 and 6x9 roll fim backs and with a brightscreen provides its user with the total view camera composition making experience, which is what is most important to me...tg.
and i use 4x5" technikardan with 4x5", 6x12cm and 9x12cm with lenses down to 35mm....and i like to use the new 360degrees roundshot 28/220 from seitz....it makes real consequent panorama fotos. and at least a leica M with 35mm 90mm leica and 15mm (voightlander) lenses. thats all in one case...and i really have all the possibilities on the road which i need....
c'mon everyone, maybe we should try to think outside of the box a bit. what about portable 8x10? why is it either lf or mf? why not a lighter easier 8x10? bruce, you didn't say the darkroom work was a hassle, so why not find another way to shoot lf?
i came across this site a while ago. i was interested, but being a student the camera didnt' seem versatile enough for my use. it might work for you though. http://www.bostick-sulliv an.com/hobo/ maybe this would be an option also.
i didn't read all of the above posts very carefully, so if someone already mentioned this, sorry for clogging up space.
-m
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