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Thread: Lens Hood, specifically for SS 110XL?

  1. #1

    Lens Hood, specifically for SS 110XL?

    I sometimes get quite a lot of (bellows?) flare when I use the Super Symmar 110XL lens on my Ebony RSW45, which I am looking to eliminate with a lens hood.

    I appreciate that a compendium shade is probably the best in reducing both direct and indirect light -- however, I am not sure that I want to deal with the inconvenience of rigging up a compendium shade every time I take a shot.

    As such, I would like to know if anyone is using a metal (or a collapsible rubber) lens shade that simply screws onto the front of the Super Symmar 110XL lens, and which (i) works very well in eliminating flare, and (ii) can be permanently left there without being concerned about vignetting, even when I use movements??

  2. #2

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    Re: Lens Hood, specifically for SS 110XL?

    Jon, why do you use a LF-camera if you don't want to deal with the inconvenience of rigging up a compendium shade every time I take a shot?

    Such an inconvenient compendium shade is the only possibility to avoid flare. Every lenshood is either to small if it doesn't vignettes together with camera movements or you have to avoid camera movemenst.

  3. #3

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    Re: Lens Hood, specifically for SS 110XL?

    Won't work. If it blocks flare effectively then it will also vignette, especially when you use camera movements.

    If you do not want to use a compendium, which is the best way to block all flare, then you could use a gobo. A gobo is a flag, card, hat, etc. that you place or hold out of the field of view of the lens so that it blocks the light causing the flare from striking the lens. A compendium is easier and more effective,

  4. #4

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    Re: Lens Hood, specifically for SS 110XL?

    Bob,
    I prefer matte box type systems, such as Sinar's excellent Bellows Shade II, that give you total control over each side work well at eliminating bellows flare when used properly, such as the OP is experiencing

    Obviously he's not using a monorail, but a compendium would probably stop 80 to 90% of it, then there's always the way Ansel recommended: use an 8x10 camera with a 4x5 reducing back to reduce bellows flare.

    Of course the elephant in the room should be: why are you using a lens with such a huge image circle on a field camera, much less without proper (compendium or at the least a flag or gobo) shading?
    Last edited by erie patsellis; 9-Mar-2010 at 16:36. Reason: realized Bob was basically saying the same thing...

  5. #5

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    Re: Lens Hood, specifically for SS 110XL?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Warwick View Post
    ...
    As such, I would like to know if anyone is using a metal (or a collapsible rubber) lens shade that simply screws onto the front of the Super Symmar 110XL lens, and which (i) works very well in eliminating flare, and (ii) can be permanently left there without being concerned about vignetting, even when I use movements??
    Those are contradictory requirements on the lens hood. Therefore it cannot work, as said above...

  6. #6
    Land-Scapegrace Heroique's Avatar
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    Re: Lens Hood, specifically for SS 110XL?

    Before I could afford a Lee WA hood (below), I used an inexpensive rubber screw-in hood for 67mm threads whose design allowed some movements for my 110XL. If I inspected the corners and noticed the hood getting in the way, I simply “pushed it back” and it still provided a little bit of protection. And when I needed more movements, I removed it and improvised as much shading as I could. I wouldn’t say the rubber hood “worked well,” but it was better than nothing. And I quickly learned it wasn’t just direct sunlight that might degrade my image; it was also indirect reflections coming from all directions, especially if I was on sand or snow, or near other reflective objects in the bright sun. During the time I used it, the rubber hood protected me from those reflections to some degree, just not nearly so well as my Lee hood does now.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Lee wide angle hood.jpg  

  7. #7

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    Re: Lens Hood, specifically for SS 110XL?

    Even a short metal hood, not really long enough to be 100% effective, is still nice for physical protection of the lens itself, it will help keep the front element cleaner, and if you should drop it, it (might) take the brunt of the impact. Even if it vignettes, it is usually outside the crop. I look for pinch lenscaps so I can leave them screwed on.

    Bob, didn't Linhof sell a series of plastic clamp on hoods for Technikas?

    And yes the full on compendiums are the best but you don't see many of our elegant wooden field camera fiends using them...

  8. #8

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    Re: Lens Hood, specifically for SS 110XL?

    "Bob, didn't Linhof sell a series of plastic clamp on hoods for Technikas? "

    Yes, they also sold a lot of different compendiums also. Still do. But the clamp-on hood system was for use with the camera as a press camera, It was not for use with movements.

  9. #9
    Robert A. Zeichner's Avatar
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    Re: Lens Hood, specifically for SS 110XL?

    http://web.mac.com/razeichner/iWeb/R...%20pg%201.html

    The above URL will take you to an article on how to build one. For the 110, you will probably want to use a slip on series 9 adapter and the next larger size of barn doors from LTM. I find this set up invaluable and easy to carry with my kit. I never shoot without it.

  10. #10

    Re: Lens Hood, specifically for SS 110XL?

    Heroique,

    I am pleased to hear that you are using the Lee "wide angle" hood, given it was something that I was considering for the Super Symmar 110XL (I presume it could just attach straight onto the front of the lens with a Lee wide angle adaptor ring?). Have you found it wide enough to avoid vignetting (especially given the wide angle of view of the SS 110XL) -- I am particularly interested in hearing if vignetting is a problem when you use Front Rise, or how you can overcome that problem whilst still using this particular Lee shade?

    Many thanks

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