Does anyone use a DSLR as a meter for their LF photography, rather than a hand held meter? I've heard of people doing this, so I'm curious.
If you do, how do you use it? (matrix, spot, etc)
Which metering system is best?
Thanks,
Mark
Does anyone use a DSLR as a meter for their LF photography, rather than a hand held meter? I've heard of people doing this, so I'm curious.
If you do, how do you use it? (matrix, spot, etc)
Which metering system is best?
Thanks,
Mark
I did. It became too much of a PITA! A point and shoot, however, that I can tolerate.
I do. Metering mode doesn't matter. Take a shot and look at the histogram. Then figure out what you are going to do (long tonal scale vs. short, highlights etc.)
I haven't tried it yet, but this intrigues me for transparencies. Couldn't the histogram be used to make sure the highlights don't blow out on the transparency? One would select an f-stop that would keep the histogram from clipping on the right.
Through experimentation, one could determine the ASA on the digital camera (for a given transparency film) that would enable the photographer to use the same f-stop on the view camera lens. Or, it could be a combination of using the lowest ASA on the digital camera, plus an off-set in stops in determining the view camera f-stop.
I don't think anybody would use it rather than a hand held meter, but yes, it can be very successfully used for that purpose if necessary.
Like Jack said, metering system doesn't matter (much) as long as you know how to read the histogram and know how to apply it to the film you use.
Marko
I use a dslr, I find it reliable. But you have to realize that the highlights will burn out and the shadows will plug at different exposure levels with your digital camera and various film types.
In theory you could map it with film tests... but in practice you can assume the digital will have a bit less range than your negative films. So if it is "safe" on the digital then it will be well within the range of your film.
But yes, compared to a tested Zone System set-up and a good spot meter then you're working like a slob ;-)
And I just set mine on Aperture Priority at f/5.6 to make the math easier to do, just scaling up and down a few stops.
Of course bellows and filter factors need to be included when you use a traditional meter too.
I have been using first an SLR and then a DSLR for metering for years. I equally appreciate DSLR's usage such as a composition previewing tool and to select appropriate LF lens (based on the zoom lens focal length setting) as well as it's metering and histogram capabilities. Many times I pre-visualize the scene by trying out the specific three or four focal lengths, depending on how many LF lenses I'm carrying, with the DLSR zoom lens to decide which LF lens would work best for the scene. Also, with the DSLR I record the capture data digitally for each LF composition.
// Atul
I don't, but then my DSLR is as heavy as my 4x5 setup if not heavier. Usually I like to hike with my 4x5 setup so bringing the DSLR is not practical.
I do think it would be useful if someone could make a handheld meter that could also give a histogram.
I think a few point and shoots have histograms, but it would be nice if one of them was tailored for metering and data logging.
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