wood tanks for sheet film?

[eli]

Thanks for all the feedback, it's all helpful.

Right now, wood is more expedient and I have most, if not all, of the materials on hand, including Titebond glues, etc, as well as the time to use them. I do like the tip about pouring the paint, in effect, treating it like a potters glaze and I can use Kilz for an undercoat/sealer.

Gloves are not a good option for me, they trap enough moisture and heat that they worsen thing quite quickly. I've tried to use them for washing up dishes, etc and it's not a good option at this time. The friction also aggravates things on the knuckles and my hands already feel like they have second degree burns most of the time. This winter my hand have had an extra-bad time, spontaneous and deep 'cuts' pop-up often despite my medications.

When I can, I'll start looking for a proper set of tanks, I didn't know Yankee had a utility tank and other than the notches, it looks like a good stand-in to hard rubber Kodak tanks. I'll keep an eye out for Rubbermaid 'tanks' and similar when I'm at Walmart.

As far as rotary processing, this is not something I care to try. I like using hangers and the control they afford and I don't want to mess with a new way of doing film, though I would consider a Nikkor 4x5 daylight tank if I found one when the budget is right.

Cheers

[Gem Singer]

Eli,

The notches on two of the top edges of the Yankee Utility tanks are for holding stainless steel hangers. Easy to feel in the dark.

These tanks hold approx. 10 hangers. The notches keep them neatly separated.

Lighter weight and easier to clean than Kodak hard rubber tanks.

B&H has Yankee Utility Tanks listed (new) for $17.95, ea.

Used ones frequently show up on eBay.

[Drew Wiley]

One small word of caution about conventional plastic containers. They generally have
mould release compounds or plasticizers, depending. Scrub them well before use. I also
like to wipe them down with alcohol. Some residues will mess with your developer if not
removed first.