I was wondering if anyone could share their techniques for maintaining focus on portrait subjects after focusing is achieved on the ground glass.I am currently using a Caltar 210mm lens stopped down to F16 or F22. It seems my subject moves slightly after I set the aperture and install the flim back. I only succeeded in only getting only 1 out of 3 shot that was tack sharp. Thanks in advance
in the links part of www.skgrimes.com, there is a DOF calculator site, and if you go to that site, you can put your lens data in and the calculator will compute your dept of field for various f stops and other parameters. i think the answer to your question might be found therein.
One method that works is to set up a slide projector which puts out a small slit of light that hits your subject on one spot on the side of the head. You focus on the subject & note where the beam of light falls on the side of the head & make sure you have it in place when you shoot the portrait. If you project the small light where it won't show on film, no problem. If you use it where the camera can see it you will need more lighting on the subject to overpower it so it won't show on film.
I use a Linhof Teknika and find that the rangefinder is very handy for making a last minute focus check.
Tape on the floor if they are standing.
Tape on the floor if they are standing. Any sort of visual cue for the sitter.
Are you shooting head and shoulders, or full length? Where is your initial focus point???
Best to focus on the eyes (pupils). Stopping down will render approx 1/3 in front and 2/3 behind. If you are shooting close up heads and they are still moving too much..you need to consider using a posing bench with arm rest to help your subject stay more stationary. If you are shooting 2/3's or full lengths; switch to a shorter lens. This will give you more depth of field for any given f stop. It will also allow you to keep a similar camera to subject distance.
I suggest a short, friendly lecture before the sitting about the realities of view camera photography, specifically that they have to HOLD STILL after the lens is closed and the film is placed into the camera. Most people have never been photographed with anything but a P&S.
For consistently sharp head & shoulder portraits I feel that a medium format SLR is better than a view camera. I use a Hassy with a 150mm Sonnar. The increased grain is more than offset by the razor sharpness of such a system.
http://www.ravenvision.com/rvapeter.htm
Use a different camera. It is much easier on you and your subject. Most portrait photographers I know use a MF camera for portraits.
Focus and tie a piece of string (with not too much elasticity to it) to the camera. Stretch the string until it touches the subject's nose and mark the string at that point. Close down the lens, insert the film holder & so on. Just before you shoot stretch the sting back to the subject's nose and get them to move forward or backward as needed. It ain't rocket science but it should do the job.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks