ND grad filters

[welly]

Hi chaps,

I use the Lee filter system, which I've done for some time, previously with 35mm/DSLR. I thought I'd give it a whirl with my 4x5 and see how I fare with it. To be honest, I found it pretty difficult to line up the graduated line - I was using a 0.6ND hard transition filter and was trying to align it with the horizon on the following shot. Clearly, I didn't get it quite right.



Does anyone have any advice, tips or suggestions on how I can work better with grad filters? I found it quite easy with my old DSLR, the grad line was always quite clear. Shame about the VPL on this shot because I was quite pleased with it otherwise!

[Eric James]

Are you stopping down (beyond your shooting aperture) prior to positioning the filter? It might take a while for your eyes to adjust under the dark cloth but the transition should be very apparent - a 2-stop LEE hard should not be a problem. Another trick is to move the filter wildly/excessively up and down - this helps me to see the transition.

I realize that your filter for this shot is ~2cm high and leaning to the right, but the horizon might be brighter than the sky above - Singh Ray addresses this problem with the Daryl Benson line of GNDs.

I have some difficulty judging whether or not I have positioned a filter level when I'm behind the camera. I often have to resort to going stepping around to make this judgement, and then reassess the filters position from beneath the cloth.

[VictoriaPerelet]

I do not know what filter system you are using, but if it's one with several slots you can always align bottom of 2nd darker filter with ND line - this way you'll see definite line on GG. Do not forget to remove 2nd filter before you click

Also doing test exposure on instant film never hurts.

[vinny]

do a search here for this topic. it was discussed recently in detail. I won't go into detail here but get some black card stock and small binder clips. Cut the stock to the length and clip to filter. there easy line to work with.

[Stephen Willard]

It has been a long time since I used GND filters. Working with color negative film affords me around 14 stops of light. If you can see it, then I can shoot it without GND filters. I had around ten Lee 4x6 resin GND filters and sold them all with no regret.

That said, what I did was simply slide a 4x6 piece of mat board that is white on one side and black on the other side and had the same thickness as a filter into one of the inner sleeves of the LEE filter holder. The black side should be facing the lens while the white side is facing outward. I then adjusted the bottom of mat board where I wanted the braking line for the GND to be. The upper part of the image is covered by the mat board while the lower part is uncovered where you do not want to hold back light. All of this is very easy to see through the ground glass of your camera.

Once that is done, you can simply slide GND down in front of the 4x6 mat board until it lines up with the bottom of the mat board. The white side of the mat board will allow you to easily see and align the GND to the bottom of the mat board. Now remove the mat board from the holder and you are ready to shoot with the GND properly aligned. With practice it just take a few minutes to get it right every time.

You can mark a small break line on the sides of each GND filter that just barely extends into interior of the filter using a blue Sharpie fine point pen. The break line is a subjective point between where the dark and clear gradations occur and will further aid you in aligning the GND with the bottom of the 4x6 mat board. I also coated the 4x6 mat board with a map water proofing liquid and installed a tiny grommet in the upper corner so I could put a long lanyard through it to hang around my neck allowing me to grab it in an instance.

Hope this helps....

[welly]

do a search here for this topic. it was discussed recently in detail. I won't go into detail here but get some black card stock and small binder clips. Cut the stock to the length and clip to filter. there easy line to work with.

That's a great tip. I'm going to try it out! Cheers!

[Lachlan 717]

do a search here for this topic. it was discussed recently in detail. I won't go into detail here but get some black card stock and small binder clips. Cut the stock to the length and clip to filter. there easy line to work with.

You don't even need to use anything this sophisicated. Just place the card's base on the transition point and fold the top over the top of the filter. No clips needed (and potential scratches avoided...)

But you're right - search the forum for more options.

[dave_whatever]

I must admin even using wide lenses stopped down to f/32, with a polariser, I've never had a problem using Lee Hard Grads, even the 1-stop. Just try moving it up and down a bit so you can see the graduation a bit more clearly.

If you really are stuck, I believe Lee do make even harder transition filters to order.

[bvstaples]

I use a index card stock. It's 100mmx125mm. I roll the card gently to give it a little curve (so it stays in the holder) slide it into the holder and while looking at the GG move it into position. It makes it quite obvious where the line of demarcation is. I then replace the card with the filter, position the "center" of the gradiated transition on the place where the card is. Cost me 2.8 cents (1.4 cents per card, I mangled my first attempt).

Brian

[Greg Miller]

This type of scene isn't the best for using a GND because the reflections of the sky off the water will also be very bright. If you bring down the luminosity of just the sky, then the water reflections will be brighter than the sky, which defies the laws of physics and isn't very natural looking.

But to answer your question, I find that jiggling the filter up and down will make the transition line quite obvious. And you do need to do that with the lens stopped down to the actual aperture you will be shooting at.