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Thread: HC110 or Pyrocat HD for FP4

  1. #21

    Re: HC110 or Pyrocat HD for FP4

    6 minutes seems a good starting time. I think that's where I ended up using trays and hand shuffling.

  2. #22

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    Re: HC110 or Pyrocat HD for FP4

    Quote Originally Posted by IanG View Post

    Carry over of developer into an alkaline fixer will convert it into a Monobath, these kind of issues are more likely to be problematic with Fibre based papers rather than films when a number of prints are being made.

    So when Sandy King says he's using the stop bath as a precaution.

    Stop bath (even dilute) is usually quite significantly more acidic than fixers like Hypam, so it's swings and roundabouts, but either way it's better to arrest development in an acidic solution.


    Ian
    Some years ago I read what some of the proponents of an all alkaline work flow were saying and decided to switch to a water bath. One of the advantages I hoped to see was enhancement of adjacency effects as the developer exhausted in the water stop bath.

    Frankly I never saw this, but what I did see from time to time was dichroic fog on my film, which I surmise was caused by the fact that the fixer exhausted faster when the film did not first pass through an acetic stop bath.

    So I switched back to an acetic stop bath, but hedged my bets to protect the stain by using it normal strength.

    Sandy King
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  3. #23

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    Re: HC110 or Pyrocat HD for FP4

    Quote Originally Posted by Henry Ambrose View Post
    Pyrocat Hde and FP4 are a winner for sure. If desired, you can take the color out of the negatives by adding a little sodium sulfite to the developer just before use. The only downside I found to Pyrocat HD was that it did not last very long in storage for me. I think there are new versions made with other than water (glycol??) that last a long time.
    How much Sodium Sulfite please ? How does it work ?

    There has been some discussion of the shelf-life of the stock solutions. Mine have lasted over 6 months, and would have probably lasted longer had I removed the air with either glass marbles or a squeezable container. But now I just make my own whenever I need it. Even then, a little goes a long way.

  4. #24

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    Re: HC110 or Pyrocat HD for FP4

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Lee View Post
    How much Sodium Sulfite please ? How does it work ?

    There has been some discussion of the shelf-life of the stock solutions. Mine have lasted over 6 months, and would have probably lasted longer had I removed the air with either glass marbles or a squeezable container. But now I just make my own whenever I need it. Even then, a little goes a long way.
    Ken,

    It works because the stain with Pyrocat is very sensitive to sodium sulfite. Add too much it disappears and you have a tanning but non-staining developer.

    How much? I used to have a record of this from tests but can not find the notes. However, I am pretty sure that the addition of 10 grams per liter of sulfite to a working solution would be enough to kill the stain. Addingl sulfite will also make the Pyrocat much more energetic, i.e. it will develop film to a given contrast much faster.

    Sandy King
    http://www.sandykingphotography.com/
    For discussion and information about carbon transfer please visit the carbon group at Yahoo.
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  5. #25

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    Re: HC110 or Pyrocat HD for FP4

    Brilliant ! I will try this out. Sodium Sulfite is so useful, it's sort of the "Duck Tape" of photo chemistry

    Meanwhile, here's a photo of a Tulip I made yesterday on 5x7 FP4+ and Pyrocat HD. (150mm APO-Nikkor)



  6. #26

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    Re: HC110 or Pyrocat HD for FP4

    FWIW to anyone,

    I've always used an acetic acid stop bath and acid fix (almost exclusively Kodak Rapid Fix) for the 15 plus years that I've been using pyro developers and I've never encountered staining problems (lack of stain). This includes Sandy King's pyro cat developer.

    Don Bryant

  7. #27
    おせわに なります! Andrew O'Neill's Avatar
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    Re: HC110 or Pyrocat HD for FP4

    Kevin,

    Are you printing on silver gelatin papers? I tend to develop a bit longer than most, even for these papers. If you are developing in a tray with 5 sec agitation every minute, try around 8 minutes. Even if this time is wrong, you'll get your EI.
    I should also add that this film does get decent stain, but not as much as HP5+. If you try other films, you will see that some films stain more readily than others. The colour Pyrocat-HD's stain works better for me than PMK and it's continuous agitation version, Rollo Pyro. The stain was more green than Pyrocat's yellow/brown stain.

  8. #28

    Re: HC110 or Pyrocat HD for FP4

    Quote Originally Posted by sanking View Post
    Ken,

    It works because the stain with Pyrocat is very sensitive to sodium sulfite. Add too much it disappears and you have a tanning but non-staining developer.

    How much? I used to have a record of this from tests but can not find the notes. However, I am pretty sure that the addition of 10 grams per liter of sulfite to a working solution would be enough to kill the stain. Addingl sulfite will also make the Pyrocat much more energetic, i.e. it will develop film to a given contrast much faster.

    Sandy King
    Sandy is the guy to answer this but 10 grams is about how I remember it as well. I think I increased dilution to slow it down.

    Henry

  9. #29

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    Re: HC110 or Pyrocat HD for FP4

    Thanks - I will give this a try.

  10. #30
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    Re: HC110 or Pyrocat HD for FP4

    Quote Originally Posted by sanking View Post
    Some years ago I read what some of the proponents of an all alkaline work flow were saying and decided to switch to a water bath. One of the advantages I hoped to see was enhancement of adjacency effects as the developer exhausted in the water stop bath.

    Frankly I never saw this, but what I did see from time to time was dichroic fog on my film, which I surmise was caused by the fact that the fixer exhausted faster when the film did not first pass through an acetic stop bath.

    So I switched back to an acetic stop bath, but hedged my bets to protect the stain by using it normal strength.

    Sandy King
    Makes sense Sandy. The Dichroic fog occurs because of slight development causing the alkali fixer to deposit silver where the two interact.

    The main use of alkali fixers is in Colour processing where all the silvers been bleached back to silver halide first anyway, so issues like this don't occur.

    Ian
    Last edited by IanG; 9-Feb-2010 at 12:14. Reason: typo

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