RA-4 chemicals: which Kodak product for rotary tank processors (Jobo)?

[Wade Guisbert]

I have been using the Tetenal Mono PK RA-4 "kit" for my initial foray into prints from color negs. It is working just fine!

However, it looks as if I buy Kodak Ektacolor RA Paper Developer, 1 Gallon manufacturer # 1478817 and Kodak Ektacolor RA2 Bleach/Fix SM Tank, 6.3L manufacturer # 8915753 I would be able to do it for less than half the cost.

Any suggestions?

[SamReeves]

There's nothing wrong with Kodak's RA-4 chemistry, though it doesn't get sold in a kit. You'll need to figure out how much you'll want to use, and buy accordingly.

Usually I use the bleach-fix twice, and that can add up to some savings.

[Wade Guisbert]

Thanks Sam!

However I get confused by the "adjectives": additive, starter, replenisher. I'm thinking these relate to some large automated processor. Or do I just ignore these descriptors, and just buy "any old" Kodak RA developer and bleach/fix?

[Larry Gebhardt]

I use these:

Dev http://www.adorama.com/KKRADRRT.html with http://www.adorama.com/KKRADS.html
Blix http://www.adorama.com/KKRABFR10L.html

I have heard the starter isn't needed, but I use it.

When using RA4 in either the Jobo or the roller processor I use a stop bath between the two steps. In the jobo I replenish at about 29ml/8x10 for the dev and 20ml/8x10 for the blix if my memory serves me right. To replenish I just count my prints up, multiply by the replenishment rate and add to the storage bottle. I discard any leftover used solution that doesn't fit in the bottle. May not be the right way to do it, but it seems to work fine.

I mix these up in 1 liter increments. The math is easy since each makes 10 liters, so I just measure out a 10th of the bottle.

The mixed developer is mixed to replenisher strength. To make a working solution you add some water and some starter. The amounts are on the starter bottle. The blix is used at mixed strength, and replenished with the same.

Hope this helps.

[Allen in Montreal]

Wade, what size prints are you most likely to make?

[Wade Guisbert]

Larry,
At this point I will follow your lead. Thank you so much for the effort and the web addresses!

Allen,
For the most part I use 8X10 to test time and filtration, and print to 20x24. Then I usually find I want to further adjust the time, filtration and cropping after looking at the "whole" 20X24. So I do several more 8X10's then do another 20X24. Then again, I can still want a few adustments. It is not unusual to do six 8x10's and three 20X24's till I am kind of happy.

All the time I am having fun! For some reason the paper in the trash doesn't bother me, but the dwindling chemicals does!

[Wade Guisbert]

The Fujicolor Crystal Archive 20X24 is $2.00/sheet the Tetenal Mono PK is $6.00/sheet.

I cut the 20X24 into six 8X10's, so if I go through the process three times, it is $32.00.

I can't really complain too much about that, it keeps me in the basement the better part of a day and out of my wife's eyesight. I could spend a lot more bowling or golfing (or getting a lap dance as I remind my wife),but I was a poor kid and also now that I am semi-retired I can't help but watch the pennies!

[Wade Guisbert]

If I still use 300ml/20X24 print on my Jobo with the 3063 tank with the solutions Larry suggested, it will cost $0.86/20X24 print in regards to chemicals. This will reduce my costs for a "three trial" 20X24 to $11.44! Shoot, Adorama charges $14.40 for a 20X24 digital print from a 60MB file.

If I make 100 prints the next year, I will save enough for two lap dances and at least 10 hours with a divorce lawyer. I wonder if Tiger Woods was familiar with cost benifit analysis?

All humor aside, is my thinking reasonable?

[IanMazursky]

I have heard the starter isn't needed, but I use it.

Starter is important for these developers and bleaches (especially in E-6 and C-41 if its required).
They kick off a seasoned tank solution which helps to minimize variations in color and density.
Kits like the kodak 1 gal e-6 and the c-41 1 gal dev have the starter mixed in or as part of one of the mixes.
A good thing about the starter concentrate is they last almost forever.
IIRC, In one of the kodak tech pubs i read they have the life listed as indefinitely.

Im sure you can use it without but the results can be unpredictable and repeatability can become an issue.
I accidentally forgot it once in the E-6 CD and it didn't look good to say the least.
RA4 may be a bit different in that you can compensate with a different filter pack.

[Drew Wiley]

I always use Kodak starter chemisty one-shot in drums, no replenishment. Didn't
have as good luck with Tetenal. Do up to 30X40's that way.