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Thread: Repair of Durst 8x10 DESKMES remote control

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  1. #1
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Repair of Durst 8x10 DESKMES remote control

    I got a pretty beat up DESKMES remote for the Durst L1840 chassis. This is a little box with 4 switches that duplicate the 4 up/down switches on the Durst control/timer unit. This little box is very handy for focusing wall enlargements because it has a long cord. It also comes in handy when doing vertical enlargements with the baseboard near the ground.

    On my unit all 4 of the switches were busted.

    I found an exact replica of the switch here:

  2. #2
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Re: Repair of Durst 8x10 DESKMES remote control

    I have some pictures to post that show how this switch will fit right in the holes in the existing printed circuit board with no modification.

  3. #3
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    Re: Repair of Durst 8x10 DESKMES remote control

    Here is the controller as I got it. All the caps of the 4 switches are gone.

  4. #4
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Re: Repair of Durst 8x10 DESKMES remote control

    The new switches had the exact same mounting specs so they went in very easily.

  5. #5
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Re: Repair of Durst 8x10 DESKMES remote control

    The two plastic locating pins were broken, but there are a second set at the other end of the plastic case. So, I mounted the switches in the other end of the plastic case. Now the cord comes out the top.

  6. #6
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Re: Repair of Durst 8x10 DESKMES remote control

    Here is the finished controller.

  7. #7

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    Re: Repair of Durst 8x10 DESKMES remote control

    Quote Originally Posted by ic-racer View Post
    The two plastic locating pins were broken, but there are a second set at the other end of the plastic case. So, I mounted the switches in the other end of the plastic case. Now the cord comes out the top.
    I had the exact same problem with my controller—the plastic locating pins were broken. I was able to drill out the broken pin and insert a steel pin replacement. In my case, I used a stainless steel welding rod, but almost any similar rod will do.

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