Lets See Your Darkroom

[Dhuiting]

The cant strips are somewhat structural I suppose, but not nearly as strong as ones made from epoxy. They're mostly to help keep water from puddling along the edges and corners of the sink. All the joints are glued with 3M 5200 adhesive and screwed together, so it's pretty strong as it is. Here's a link to the build diary with more details- http://colinflanarygraham.com/darkshop/?p=3131

When I was researching this the recommendation was to really key the plywood surface well for a good bond, so I used 80 grit sandpaper. I also ran across a lot of warnings about surface contamination compromising the bond. Not sure if gel stain would cause issues, if it's oil-based it might be a problem.

I learned a lot just by watching the West System videos on youtube, there's a good 12-part series on wooden boat repair that's very helpful- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtbG...NEOeaMRxDllYnb

Which brand of sink strainer did you buy? My sink it made out of two strips of three-quarter inch plywood that is glued together so I will have to find one with at least an inch and a half of threads to go all the way through. ( or remove some material from the bottom piece of plywood so that the flange can screw on the threads of whatever sink strainer I buy )

[Colin Graham]

I bought a few different styles but ended up using a standard kitchen sink drain. The slopes of my sink intersect at the drain, so once I flattened that area for the jamb nut and rubber washer the sink was only about 9/16" thick.

Most kitchen drains only have 1" or so of thread for the sink mount. But some of the smaller RV/ bar sink style drains have more thread. The one in the photo (Glacier Bay from Home Depot) has about 2" of mounting thread, but even with 2" of thread, it might be a little tight for both the tail pipe and sink mounting nuts in a 1 1/2" deck.

[Edited to add: I wouldn't recommend the Glacier Bay drain in the photo as it's chrome plated, but there might be a stainless steel version of it somewhere online.]

[Dhuiting]

I bought a few different styles but ended up using a standard kitchen sink drain. The slopes of my sink intersect at the drain, so once I flattened that area for the jamb nut and rubber washer the sink was only about 9/16" thick.

Most kitchen drains only have 1" or so of thread for the sink mount. But some of the smaller RV/ bar sink style drains have more thread. The one in the photo (Glacier Bay from Home Depot) has about 2" of mounting thread, but even with 2" of thread, it might be a little tight for both the tail pipe and sink mounting nuts in a 1 1/2" deck.

[Edited to add: I wouldn't recommend the Glacier Bay drain in the photo as it's chrome plated, but there might be a stainless steel version of it somewhere online.]

Gotcha, thanks! I bought this one at Home Depot (see attached pic), but some of the reviews are making me nervous, where people are saying that the holes are not big enough and it doesn't drain well. So I guess I'll be looking for another style with better reviews.

Also wondering if you "wet set" the sink strainer into the first coat of epoxy or if you drill the hole after the epoxy was finished and just use silicone or something to seal the drain? )My gut tells me I should put the drain in first and let the epoxy help seal the drain around the edges.


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[Colin Graham]

I drilled the drain hole before coating, cutting a recess for the drain flange in the top of the sink. (I wanted to seal all plywood surfaces and edges with epoxy and still be able to swap out the drain down the road if needed.) I installed the drain with plumber's putty below the flange topside and with the supplied rubber gasket between the mounting nut and the bottom of the sink. I cut the flange recess in the sink deck deep enough to account for the epoxy thickness and some extra for the putty as well, wanted to make sure there wasn't a lip around the drain that collected water.

Feel free to email me through the forum if you have any more questions.

[Duolab123]

I drilled the drain hole before coating, cutting a recess for the drain flange in the top of the sink. (I wanted to seal all plywood surfaces and edges with epoxy and still be able to swap out the drain down the road if needed.) I installed the drain with plumber's putty below the flange topside and with the supplied rubber gasket between the mounting nut and the bottom of the sink. I cut the flange recess in the sink deck deep enough to account for the epoxy thickness and some extra for the putty as well, wanted to make sure there wasn't a lip around the drain that collected water.

Feel free to email me through the forum if you have any more questions.

This is the correct process IMHO. I know that with Corian sinks the recommendation is to use pure silicone in place of plumber's putty, this has something to do with the Corian being effected by the putty. We always called the putty Permagum. I recently picked up a nice 35-40 year old Arkay darkroom sink. I had to reset drain, as the 40 year old putty cracked when it was removed from the old darkroom. I removed the drain parts cleaned everything up nicely. Reinstalled using fresh putty between flange and sink, rubber gasket and a "friction washer " then the flange nut. A plastic friction washer helps with tightening the flange nut without the nut digging into the rubber gasket. Some kits come with a friction gasket, some don't. I just tightened down the nut snug, a drain wrench "dumbbell wrench" inserted into the drain will hold the drain flange to allow you to tighten down the flange nut from below.
These plywood sinks are so beautiful, it will look great with a simple stainless drain.

[Bruce Barlow]

Dan -

I had the problem of the drain holes not being big enough to drain well. I took a slightly larger drill bit than the holes and drilled each one out. I may have evn done it twice. Problem solved. I did take care to ensure that I wasn't going to use too big a bit and ruin it.

[neil poulsen]

Same kind of setup for me. 8x10 on left. 5x7 setup for 6x17 negatives on the right. Zone VI VC heads, Metrolux II controller. I found someone who wanted rid of them. 300 and 240 Rodagons on the 810. 210 and 180 el Nikkors on the 5x7. I use a Beseler 4x5 setup for day to day stuff
Attachment 181273

I have and really enjoy a similar setup, except that I use a Beseler 45s on my Zone VI. Years ago, Zone VI (and Calumet) made a Beseler adapter. My primary formats are 4x5 and medium format, all of which can be enlarged with the 45s. I can switch in the 8x10 or 5x7 head on the rare occasion that one of them is needed.

[Christopher Barrett]

Randy, I finally built a home for your print drying screens...

[Tin Can]

Great, they would have been destroyed during my 2 stop move.

The sink looks good too!

I once filled it to the top with water to check strength. No problem. I also walked in it when fixing something on the wall behind it.

My 7 ft sink is all I need now.

[Greg]

Gotcha, thanks! I bought this one at Home Depot (see attached pic), but some of the reviews are making me nervous, where people are saying that the holes are not big enough and it doesn't drain well. So I guess I'll be looking for another style with better reviews.

Also wondering if you "wet set" the sink strainer into the first coat of epoxy or if you drill the hole after the epoxy was finished and just use silicone or something to seal the drain? )My gut tells me I should put the drain in first and let the epoxy help seal the drain around the edges.


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Used a very similar drain. I drilled out the center to just under the diameter of the drain pipe, and then used JBWeld to attach a round SS screen under the top plate. From above looks totally stock OEM. Has held up for the past few years and the drain rate is amazingly fast.