Restoring a Century Universal 8x10

**Michael Roberts** · 14-Oct-2009, 11:38

Originally Posted by RichSBV

You guys have missed the size of the replacements for the rivets. I originally posted in one of my previous comments that I used #2 machine screws. A bit of further thought and I remembered that the #2'a were far too large. I don't have one handy at the moment, but it was definitely either a #1 or #0 screw. I also have #00 but I don't think they went that small. As I remember, I had to use 2 different sizes due to hole variations in the cameras. It's very easy to simply use a machine screw with a nut & washer on the inside of the case. The hard part is the length. The easy way is to screw one in and mark it's length after installing the nut & washer. Take it out and cut it. Then cut the other 7 to match.

These small machine screws are readily available from places such as Micro Mark and Small Parts. They're cheap enough to buy more than needed in various sizes and come in very handy for other fixes.... And by the way, we're talking BRASS machine screws here. They're easy to cut and plenty strong enough for the application.

After thoroughly checking McMaster, I think Rich's solution is the way for me to go. I remeasured and the holes drilled for the original brads are only 3/32, not 3/16. McMaster doesn't have threaded inserts anywhere near small enough.

I think a 2-56 should fit nicely. I may add a small brass strip (painted black) on the underside to add further support--now that I've got all the hardware and bellows off, the 1/4in thickness of the back frame seems awfully thin to support the entire weight of the camera....

Thanks for all the suggestions on this point!

**Michael Roberts** · 14-Oct-2009, 18:33

Got out the Minwax Antique Furniture Refinisher, the 0000 steel wool, and got to work stripping the old finish today. Here are some before/after pics.

It took a few tries to get the technique down. I finally worked out I needed to apply the refinisher with one saturated pad and immediately wipe off with a clean, dry one. This stuff dries fast!

I'm pleased--with a little more touch-up, I think I'll be ready to start applying tung oil to refinish!

(Still have to disassemble the front standard, and repeat the process on it, too.)

**Michael Roberts** · 14-Oct-2009, 18:34

More before/afters...

**Michael Roberts** · 14-Oct-2009, 18:36

Two more...

**Michael Roberts** · 15-Oct-2009, 20:19

Okay, so here is what the 2d and 3rd extension rails--steel--originally painted a 1930s file cabinet/manual typewriter gray--look like when painted a glossy black. I left the bit where the front standard slides back and forth bare, 'cause any paint is just going to rub off anyway....

As much as I liked the 3rd finish job from above, I don't want the shiny metal bits to distract from the fine old wood on this camera. So, my present intent is to shine up the brass, and to repaint the steel bits in glossy black....

And, btw, the wood is still raw, no tung oil yet, and the brass rail still needs more cleaning.

Feedback??

**Jim C.** · 16-Oct-2009, 00:11

The painted parts look chocolate brown to me on my monitor for some reason.

3/32 is a small hole, at that point I would have looked for some other type of threaded insert
but that's me

a 2-56 machine screw with a backing plate sounds good . I'm not sure how
OEM you want the restoration to be but if you use a brass backing plate I suggest tapping the
holes in the plate for the 2-56's and screwing the plate in from the underside with some wood
screws, that way if you ever need to remove the 2-56's you won't drive yourself nuts with a
loose backing plate.

**Michael Roberts** · 18-Oct-2009, 08:17

Spent literally all day yesterday doing more old finish stripping and sanding, sanding, sanding. The more I sanded, the more the grain came out.

First pic shows supplies to get ready to strip the old finish. I used aluminum foil "boats" to pour up the stripper and soak the steel wool; easy to toss afterward.

**Michael Roberts** · 18-Oct-2009, 08:20

The last photo above and the ones here are after wiping the dust off with Murphy's Oil Soap. I thought I might have to restain--the wood was looking very light--like pecan--after sanding. But the soap and water revealed a much better looking walnut finish, so I think I can go right to the Tung Oil finish coats on most of it. Still a little more sanding to do....it's interesting how much redder the wood looks with a flash (last pic)...

**Michael Kadillak** · 18-Oct-2009, 08:53

A thing of beauty Michael. I know that it will make some marvelous images soon.

I am in the process of grinding my own ground glass. (hint hint).

Cheers!