Preparing for Contact Printing - Paper Question

[Jim Cole]

Ok, time for some newbie questions. I'm outfitting the WP and Deardorff cameras for use, the house will come off the market (again) by the end of October and then I will convert the guest bathroom to a simple darkroom for contact printing. I have never printed traditionally before. My goal is to eventually get good enough with subject material and technique to use Lodima paper for my sellable prints.

Assuming that Lodima (and amidol as the developer, I assume) is the endgame, what suggestions do you folks have for an affordable paper/developer combination that will put me in a good place for the eventual transition to the expensive stuff? I want my learning curve to be applicable to where I want to end up.

Thanks for any help here if the question is even answerable.

Jim

[Bill_1856]

If you already understand what a good print is, then you might as well start with LODIMA. The technical aspect of printing ain't that difficult, it's the artistic side that's difficult.
If you insist on starting with a "standard" paper, Roman Loranc uses plain old Ilford Multigrade, and nobody makes more beautiful prints than his.
I would suggest, however, that instead of starting with AMIDOL, you would consider ANSCO 30 which is nearly as beautiful, and lasts forever even after it's mixed and diluited (Photographers Formulary), and doesn't stain.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Jim, I used to print on Azo/Amidol and I can tell you from experience that when and if I print silver again I would use this combo. I have a good stock of Azo.

I would start with the Lodima and Ansco 130 and then transition into the Amidol. Yes, you do have to mix the Amidol from scratch but it does make a difference. The Lodima is not that expensive if you look at the price of Ilfords papers.

Contact printing on Lodima will be easy. The learning curve is not that steep and you can get some great prints in no time.

Jim

[Jim Cole]

Jim & Bill,

I had my shopping cart filledwith a few hundred $$ worth of Lodima a couple of hours ago and then cancelled the cart. The paper should be available about the time I'll be ready for it so I may go ahead and order it. Sounds like you both are of the same mind about the paper and starting with the Ansco.

If I can only buy one grade for now, would you suggest Grade 2 or Grade 3. I know I will probably want both, but if I have to start with one, should it be the Grade 2?

Thanks again,
Jim

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Jim, I have found that for my images I like the grade 3. You should really get both. Depends on your images and the contrast of your negatives. The great thing with grade 3 and the Lodima/Amidol combo is that you can use a water bath to hold back the contrast a bit and bring it down to a 2 1/2. Takes a little practice but the water bath is a good thing.

Jim

[Jim Cole]

Great info, Jim. Thanks.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

You're welcome. I hope it helps.

Jim

[jeroldharter]

Probably a dumb question answered elsewhere, but I wonder: why is Lodima not a variable contrast paper? Is that impossible with silver chloride papers?

[Jeff Corbett]

I would also encourage you to go straight to the Lodima paper. When I started in my darkroom I bought a bunch of Ilford RC paper because it was cheaper. I still use it for some proofs, but it is so inferior to the fibre based paper that I requet buying the RC paper every time I use it. For contact printing I have used AZO with amidol and that is truely an excellent combination. I also have Lodima paper on order.

Jeff

[John Kasaian]

I like contact printing on Fomabrom N111 with Ansco 130. YMMV or course. Freestyle stocks Fomabrom N111 (and also the softer and harder versions) I've also used Emaks, Slavich and Galerie but for contact printing N111 is now my "fave" (which is probably a curse---what faster way to "doom" a photo paper than by finding at long last a favorite graded fiber base? I'd better stock up!)