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Thread: Newb exposure question

  1. #1
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    Newb exposure question

    Newb as in LF newb. If I'm shooting with any of my digital cameras I don't have a problem nailing exposure. Modern camera metering kicks butt. I shoot manual all of the time with the digital boxes. However, I recently (like yesterday and today) shot 10 rounds (my reloading life is leaking through) of Fujiroid B&W through my Linhof MT and getting the right exposure was not a walk in the park. Granted... the first 4 were eyeball (literally) and bracketed in. All of them were shot in bad light (4 stops on average). One was shot with the dark slide in That might have been the best of the lot come to think of it But... I used my Sekonics meter in spot metering mode. I chose f22 and the meter range was 1/125s on the sky to 1/2s on the barn. The barn was probably 85% or more of the exposure. I didn't expect to see the sky and barn both properly exposed. I also used my 1DsMK3 as a meter (70 - 200 lens @ 70mm gave me about the same image) and it told me 1/8s should work. To bring this to the point. Both 1/8s and definitely 1/2s were over exposed. I shot the very last sheet @ 1/30s and I probably could have stopped down 1/3 to 2/3 and been closer. Again- the sky was a loss no matter what I did if I wanted the barn to be right. If it hadn't been cloudy and high noon-ish I probably would had less exposure latitude to deal with. Once I was out of film I put the Sekonics in reflected light mode and starting at the barn, I walked away and measured exposure until I got 1/30s @ f22. As I expected, I was about 15' away from the barn toward the camera before I got to 1/30s @ f22 (ISO 100). I'm at a loss for how to meter a landscape image. I can't fire off a pack of fujiroid for testing purposes every time I want to shoot something. I need a way to home in on a good exposure setting for a given metering value.

    ^^ all of the above is leading up to the real question. Assuming that I'm not dealing with more exposure difference than film (or any sensor for that matter) can handle, what is the best way to meter a landscape image? Generally speaking. I realize there are a ton of unseen and site dependent factors in this question but there has to be some kind of starting point.

    I had forgotten how much more there was to photography when shooting film... cool...

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    Re: Newb exposure question

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Lloyd View Post
    ^^ all of the above is leading up to the real question. Assuming that I'm not dealing with more exposure difference than film (or any sensor for that matter) can handle, what is the best way to meter a landscape image? Generally speaking. I realize there are a ton of unseen and site dependent factors in this question but there has to be some kind of starting point.
    Exposure metering is an art of itself. Specially with a spotmeter one can get really nice results. But after working with many different exposure meters like Pentax spotmeter, LF-TTL-exposure meter like the Sinarsix or Profi-Select etc. an incedent light exposure meter like the Sekonic Studio is my favorite one. Light weight, no batteries and correct exposures with chromes and negs.

    Peter

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    Re: Newb exposure question

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter K View Post
    Exposure metering is an art of itself. Specially with a spotmeter one can get really nice results. But after working with many different exposure meters like Pentax spotmeter, LF-TTL-exposure meter like the Sinarsix or Profi-Select etc. an incedent light exposure meter like the Sekonic Studio is my favorite one. Light weight, no batteries and correct exposures with chromes and negs.

    Peter
    Funny coincidence, I purchased a Sekonic Studio about a month ago to replace the Digisix my eldest "accidentally" took back to college. Main use was for my TLR and as an adjunct to the meter on my M7II -- it's a stellar meter and I have started to use it more often with LF.

    JT

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    Re: Newb exposure question

    My Sekonic (though battery operated) is an Incident / Spot meter. In studio, I used the incident meter, aimed from subject to camera, and trigger pocket wizards / studio lights for a reading. Handy... but... out in the fun world I'm at a loss for how to use an incident meter for landscapes. I get the idea of pointing it where I want to shoot and taking the reading but I'm not yet comfortable with the idea that it will work

    I like the self powered aspect of the Sekonic Studio. Definitely something to add to the bag.

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    Re: Newb exposure question

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Lloyd View Post
    I need a way to home in on a good exposure setting for a given metering value.

    ^^ all of the above is leading up to the real question. Assuming that I'm not dealing with more exposure difference than film (or any sensor for that matter) can handle, what is the best way to meter a landscape image? Generally speaking. I realize there are a ton of unseen and site dependent factors in this question but there has to be some kind of starting point.

    I had forgotten how much more there was to photography when shooting film... cool...

    I think the Zone System is what you are looking for. You can search here for info on using it. There are also several good books explaining The Zone System including Ansel Adams' "The Negative". He developed the system, so I found his description the most helpful for me.

    Welcome back to film and manual exposures. What could be more fun!

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    Re: Newb exposure question

    Michael,

    Use the incident meter. Stand in front of your barn. Aim the white dome at the camera lens. Take a meter reading. Use that as a starting point.

    Down the road, you can try reflected readings from the lightest area in the scene you wish to maintain detail and open 2-3 stops from what the meter says. Then meter the darkest area that you wish to preserve detail and close 1-2 stops from what the meter says. Hopefully the two readings will be 5 stops or less apart.

    Clear as mud?
    Wayne
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    Re: Newb exposure question

    (slaps forehead) I've got all three of Ansel Adams books... I'll check it out

    Honestly... when I first set my LMT up this morning I got a little frustrated. I don't have a good dark cloth yet so I was dealing with a towel flopping around in the wind. Then there were the rise / fall adjustments to figure out. But... by the time I was done... a general calm prevailed. Very relaxing to do if you just slow down and enjoy moment. Einstein was wrong... you can slow time down... just shoot LF

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    Re: Newb exposure question

    ps: Get a small notebook so you can write down the various exposure settings from the various parts of the scene.
    Wayne
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    Re: Newb exposure question

    Quote Originally Posted by venchka View Post
    Michael,

    Use the incident meter. Stand in front of your barn. Aim the white dome at the camera lens. Take a meter reading. Use that as a starting point.

    Down the road, you can try reflected readings from the lightest area in the scene you wish to maintain detail and open 2-3 stops from what the meter says. Then meter the darkest area that you wish to preserve detail and close 1-2 stops from what the meter says. Hopefully the two readings will be 5 stops or less apart.

    Clear as mud?

    Did that post shoot. That was about 2 stops off (over exposed) from what the final version was.

    Fujiroid isn't giving me 5 stops of latitude... not B&W anyway... maybe that's another factor in the poop soup...

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    Re: Newb exposure question

    If you're shooting b&w, you can use a filter to work with the sky, again ask A.A in "The Negative" Those first two books should be your L.F. Bibles until you get back into the swing of things. Also a book called "View Camera Technique" is great for learning to use movements.

    I have a real dark cloth for my 4x5 but shoot 11x14 with a small blanket. I've seen guys use "T" shirts in a pinch...anything works.

    I'll second the idea of writing exposure info down in a notebook. I started when I was a newb, and now have years of great notes to refer to.

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