Using b/w enlarging paper in film holders

**geoferrell** · 7-Sep-2009, 14:26

I've been using b/w enlarging paper in 4x5 and 8x10 film holders with some success except for the problem of rating the EI of the paper. I looked on the sheet for the Ilford multigrade and saw an EI of 200. Does anyone have experience with that product? I've used RC paper in 4x5 and had varied results. I've seen some of the papers rated at between EI 1 and 6. Does the lithograph film offer a better approach?

**Glenn Thoreson** · 7-Sep-2009, 16:25

Graded paper will work better than VC. You can use VC enlarging filters on your lens, though. That may help. ISO for in camera use is around 6. If you can still get direct positive paper from Freestyle, that may be a good alternative.

**jnantz** · 7-Sep-2009, 17:21

hi geoferrell

they calculate paper iso differently than film ...

you can find your personal iso
by bracketing your exposure,
the same way you would for film.
i never use rc paper for negatives ... just fb
i usually rate my vc paper at 6 and graded paper below 1 ..

have fun!
john

**geoferrell** · 7-Sep-2009, 18:12

Thanks. I was planning on using the RC in the film holder then using that as a paper negative onto FB paper as a kind of contact print. And, in the multi-grade package with the paper it had an ISO chart for the paper that seemed to indicate ISO 200 -- I know that other materials state ISO 1 to 6 so the other figure made me wonder. Anyway, I'll keep experimenting and see what kind of results I get.

jp · 9-Sep-2009, 09:46

An enlarging paper negative could be popped into cheap desktop scanner for a easy scan.

No special negative holders or transparency tops would be needed for a reasonably decent scan. Just invert the color transforms, flip horizontal, in photoshop or the scanning program, apply a contrast or curve if needed, and you're done.

You'd also be able to develop by safelight, which is kinda cool, but not that useful as their's not much you can alter in paper development.

**jnantz** · 9-Sep-2009, 12:40

SNIP

Originally Posted by jp498

You'd also be able to develop by safelight, which is kinda cool, but not that useful as their's not much you can alter in paper development.

what do you mean that there is not much to alter in paper development, push/pull processing ?

i shoot paper often and there isn't much i can do with film that i can't do with paper ..
but there is stuff i can do with paper that i can't do with film ...

**BetterSense** · 9-Sep-2009, 13:56

I do this all the time, partly because I'm poor.

Glossy RC VC works best. Not graded. The big problem is contrast and blue sensitivity. You will have a lot of both. Say goodby to any skys. Skin tones, browns and other red-containing colors will be darker than expected. Using a yellow filter can produce almost normal results, but slows the paper down even more. Preflashing the paper helps a ton (by shooting a gray card just before exposure to an extent that will produce a very light uniform tone if developed immediately in testing) helps a ton. So does developing in 1+10 or diluter, old brown dektol and yanking before the highlights block up. There is no reciprocity failure. Leaving the negatives around for a couple weeks after exposure before development seems to help for some reason too. Sharpness can be very good. With most RC paper, pretending it's ISO 3 film will get you in the ballpark.