Bellows sag: anyone else having this issue?

[Rick Russell]

Lately I have noticed the bellows of my camera blocking a portion of the top of some of my images, which results in a large shadow being cast on the images. It most often occurs when I use a 150mm length lens.

I own an Ebony camera with the universal bellows. The universal bellows has what I presume to be standard bellows material for all but the first few folds of the bellows material closest to the lens. The first few folds of bellows are made of a soft leather which allows greater manueverability, i.e., bag bellows lite.

Obviously one answer is to check before shooting everytime to ensure that the bellows are not vignetting, something I've now got to get myself in the habit of doing. My question is, has anyone else come up with other solutions to this problem.

Thank you in advance for any assistance and advice you can provide.

Rick Russell

[GPS]

Why not to support the bellows from the bellow? An old fashioned match box has 3 possible supporting dimensions...

[Gem Singer]

If the bellows was sagging from the top surface downward, wouldn't it block a portion of the bottom of the image?

Canham cameras use a piece of velcro strip from the top of the front standard to the top of the bellows to prevent it from sagging.

[Donald Miller]

I had this problem with my 12X20 bellows. I solved it by gluing a fabric strip with metal eye installed to the bellows at the optimal support point and slipped the eye over a brass screw in the upper member of the front standard when needed.

My Wisner 5X7 came from the factory set up this way.

Donald Miller

[Eric Woodbury]

Bellows sag more when hot. Sometimes you can bunch it up to the front and get it out of the way.

[Walter Calahan]

Many times I use the lens wraps in which I store my lenses as bellows lifts. I'll fold them tightly and place them between the camera bed and the bellows to help lift. That said, my Canham 8x10 and straps built into the bellows that I can hook to the front standard to draw the bellows tight. Only with long glass do I need the added support.

Also make sure your compendium isn't blocking your image area. I some times can't see any blockage until I stop down to the correct f/stop of exposure. Have ruined a few images by not checking.

[Drew Wiley]

Just check the bellows before you install the lens. I too have an Ebony and this is
never an issue for me. The bellows doesn't sag at all; but it might compress
incorrectly with shorter lenses. I just put my finger in there and pop the "sag" out.
It never collapses afterwards.

[Don7x17]

Just check the bellows before you install the lens. I too have an Ebony and this is
never an issue for me. The bellows doesn't sag at all; but it might compress
incorrectly with shorter lenses. I just put my finger in there and pop the "sag" out.
It never collapses afterwards.

Little LF cameras rarely have the problem, unless you have a long bellows like the Arca Swiss long bellows for 4x5. then you'll need to prop up the bellows or buy one of Rod Klukas' plastic lifters (pretty nifty product -- contact Rod at Photomark).

Larger LF cameras will always have this problem unless you have a very short bellows. I've seen this on the long bellows on the arca swiss 5x7 and arca swiss 8x10.

My Canham 12x20 has 54 inches of bellows. There is no way its self supporting. You can shove something under the bellows to raise it, or build a small folding mounting board structure like I've done. Another option is to use a velcro loop around the bellows and a AWB wind stabilizer kit (which crosses between the front and rear standards above the bellows).

[John Bowen]

I have to believe Richard Ritter's solution to this problem is the least expensive/most elegant solution out there. Richard recommends a paper clasp (those little black gizmos with the silver "pinchers" we buy by the dozen to hold documents together that are a bit too big for a paperclip) and a rubber band. Just attach the clasp to the bellows at an appropriate spot, loop the rubber band through one of the paper clasp's "handles" and pull the rubber band to a small screw attached to the top of the lens stage. I have a few of these (using various length rubber bands) attached to my Ritter 8x10 and Ritter 7x17 to prevent bellows sag. They cost about $0.25 each and work like a charm. Simple, elegant and inexpensive! What more could you ask?

[John O'Connell]

Richard recommends a paper clasp (those little black gizmos with the silver "pinchers" we buy by the dozen to hold documents together that are a bit too big for a paperclip) and a rubber band. Just attach the clasp to the bellows at an appropriate spot, loop the rubber band through one of the paper clasp's "handles" and pull the rubber band to a small screw attached to the top of the lens stage.

Peter Gowland recommended just using the binder clip directly on the bellows and pulling them taut---good to see that tradition is united on the usefulness of the binder clip.

I prefer to wedge a spare black t-shirt underneath my 8x10 bellows.