Here's a wet plate image of Daniel... A shot I made at Photostock this year...
shot with a Kodak 2D 8x10 and 13" Darlot @ F4. Exposure was about 1 second.
6" x 8" Collodion on aluminum image.
Here's a wet plate image of Daniel... A shot I made at Photostock this year...
shot with a Kodak 2D 8x10 and 13" Darlot @ F4. Exposure was about 1 second.
6" x 8" Collodion on aluminum image.
Sly,
Have you posted any of your other alt work here? I'm sure others would like to see it. I wish everyone would have brought a portfolio of their work. The work I saw was wonderful.
Jay, I've got work peppered through the site, both alt and silver. If you go to "find other posts by..." you'll find them. I just post to the site rather than connect to URL's, so there won't be any big white boxes stating not available.
Anywhere I can see your work?
Tri, regarding your last post...you sensitize and then wait 6-8 hours before exposure? Then you expose and go to work, and develop later when you get home?
Hi Paul,
I let the tissue dry overnight 8-10 hrs . Exposed and matted in the morning for 6 -8 hrs then develope it whenever I get home. Just to give you an idea for my glob volume an thickness on 16x20 is 450ml. I find this size tissue is suitable for me to use with my 14x17 , 11x14 or 2 8x10 transfer.
Thanks, Tri...
Wow, I'm surprised at the drying time. I had always read to expose as soon after drying to prevent fogging of the tissue, but you've proved it otherwise. Thanks!
This workflow makes it easier to schedule into a busy day...
I made a foray into carbon a few months ago, but set it aside for a bit due to the time required. This will help a lot...I'll try it.
If you look back at Tri's posts you will find one with some fogging in the highlights. I have done this too and it didnt work for me.
Now I use a dehumidifier in a cupboard to dry my tissue, it is always safely dry after 2 hours and developed about 3 hours after sensitising and that is in 40C developing water. So sensitise at 6 pm and your print will be hanging on the line at about 9pm. If your tissue takes forever to seperate and develop make thinner tissue and use more sugur. Gelatine will not melt when it is dry, thick tissue does not melt quickly because it must fist absorb water. Thick tissue = trouble in my experience.
David Cary
www.milfordguide.nz
David what ever works is best.
I agree with Jim; find a method that works but most importantly, you can repeat.
I am a heretic; I spirit sensitise my tissue then give the tissue 10 minutes in the dark to soak it all in properly; then I blast it with a hair dryer for a few minutes until it starts to go from floppy to the early stages of stiffening due to drying. I have become quite good at judging a consistent 'feel' that does not stick to the negative, but has not made the gelatine shrink back to its fully dry state.
I make my tissue with pigment that I grind myself. There is a high proportion of coarse particles and when dry, my tissue feels like 40 grit sandpaper. After sensitising, the gelatine swells and the surface is surprisingly smooth. I try to dry to keep the surface smooth but not sticky so that I get a good contact with the negative still.
Best regards,
Evan
EDIT: I forgot to mention, the first few times I used the hair drier, I used a hand-held infra red thermometer to make sure that I did not heat the tissue over 50 degrees C; you really need to keep the airflow moving over the surface of the tissue. I occasionally do tests where I hold the drier on one spot for some time (I once got to 75 degrees surface temperature in a small area) but I have never managed to heat-fog the tissue. I use Pot.Di at 2% dilution, with 5ml acetone and 5ml of my 2% for an 8"x10" area. It is always worth trying to see if the 'accepted wisdom' actually applies to your working practices.
Bookmarks